I'm glad Randall piped up about the relative strengths of the socket head
cap screws.
My experience and (limited) research agrees with his assertions.
As for the usefulness of using a SHCS for the driveshaft bolts . . .
Even if I couldn't get any sort of ratcheting type of wrench on the socket
head end . . . (which I'm not conceding as of yet mind you)
A stubby hex (Allen) wrench would still be an improvement.
I figured you'd get a bigger swing arc on with the hex wrench.
So the Allen wrench stays engaged in the socket head bolt while the open
ended crescent wrench on the nut side is just engaged and disengaged as
needed to loosen or tighten things up.
Any more swing in the arc is fewer strokes to take the self locking nut off
of the things.
Speaking of locking nuts, I've had nylocs on the driveshaft work loose on
me too.
I have also used the all metal locking nuts (deformed nuts that bind) and
I'm sure those won't work loose.
However I wasn't thrilled with their lack of re-usability.
So now I'm wondering about using regular nuts, a spring loc-washer and
removable strength loctite.
(applied to new clean fasteners of course)
Any opinions on that setup?
Thanks in advance.
BTW . . Socket Head Cap screws are the way to go for mounting the lever arm
shocks.
On some of those things, there's just no room to get a socket over a hex
head bolt / nut.
Scott Tilton
1970 TR6 Everyday
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