> 2) when I jumper to the inner steering column the way the horn button
> works (which is now properly grounded and shows good continuity) I get a
> quick wimpy 'urp' from the horns, and the ammeter spikes. This almost
> sounds like a short.
Fairly typical of TR horns that aren't getting enough 'juice' ... the
contacts inside the horns are not opening and so the average current is much
higher.
> Although Moss shows a horn relay, I have not been able to locate such -
> anybody know where it's supposed to be ??? Of course, I can't seem to
> find the inline fuse between the starter solenoid and the horns either.
> Probably went away with a previous owner.
Sorry, I'm no help here. Seems to be a misprint in my 4A owner's manual,
and AFAIK the electrical section of the workshop manual was never updated
for the 4A.
> Anybody got any suggestions where to proceed from here ??
Seems pretty clear from your description that the horn relay has been
removed (or possibly was never present); and that the ground for the
steering column isn't good enough to power the horns (ie they aren't getting
enough voltage). I would check the ground strap across the coupling in the
steering column, plus the ground connection to the steering rack. If
necessary, use a voltmeter to figure out where the voltage drops are. Then
add a relay.
> Anybody know
> the proper fuse size for the inline fuse to the horns ?
The book gives it as 35 amps. However, this is the old Lucas fuse rating
system, which is different than the system in use today. You can either buy
a proper "35 amp, 17.5 continuous" fuse from the usual suspects; or
substitute a modern AGC 20 amp fuse.
> 1965 TR4A (hoping to find its voice soon)
> 1952 MGTD (temporarily taking a restful sleep)
Ooh, tough choice. Just don't drive a TR3 !
<G>
Randall
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