Makes sense to me, I won't use any anti-seize.
Thanks all.
JVV
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randall Young" <Ryoung@navcomtech.com>
To: "List" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 11, 2004 3:58 PM
Subject: RE: TR4A thru 6 Rear Hubs
> Gerald M Van Vlack wrote :
> > > I ordered new spacers, once together I don't want to do the job a
second
> > > time.
> > > What do you think about using anti-seize between the axle and
> > > hub in case
> > > I do need to remove in the future?
>
>
> Graham Stretch replied :
>
> > I would not use anti seize as one of the functions of the taper is to
> > transmit the torque to the drive flange, the woodruff key is not
> > capable of doing this alone.
> > Any thoughts from the rest of you?
>
> Somehow I missed Jerry's original query, but I absolutely agree with
Graham.
>
> Do NOT use anti-seize or any other lubricant on a locking taper ! They
are
> made as a locking taper for a definite reason and anti-seize may defeat
the
> purpose. The reason the rear hubs get so tight is not because of rust,
but
> rather because that big, beefy looking hub actually flexes under use and
> works it's way tighter on the stub axle until the joint is locked solid.
If
> the joint is slick enough that it never locks, it will continue to work
and
> fret until something is ruined. Definitely not the sort of thing you want
> to have happen during a high-speed curve !
>
> I couldn't find the passage in Kas' latest book about lapping the hubs to
> the axle, but I do see where he talks about having the keys shear under
> racing conditions. The fix I saw suggested was to make the keys out of
HSS
> lathe bits.
>
> Randall
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