> 1) Would that have everything or would I need a few other pieces?
After years of not doing so, I would definitely recommend changing the peg,
bushing and seal in the steering box at the same time. Made a world of
difference in my car.
> Regarding this, I have the how to restore a TR3 by Roger
> Williams. In it he
> talks about using a TR4 trunnion and a pair of TR 4 top wishbones. Any
> thoughts on that?
Increases steering effort with little or no improvement in handling IMO ...
just makes the car wander a bit less. Mine doesn't wander at all unless the
road surface is uneven, but it does have a tendency to follow ruts badly
(probably has something to do with my wide tires and no toe-in). I've got
the parts to do the mod, but I've never put them on the car.
> 2) I think I need to replace the shocks, will stock shocks be ok
> or should
> I go with a Spax or koni? I have to admit that I would prefer
> non-adjustable shocks just because it will be that much less for me to
> monkey with and I know nothing about the hows and whys of
> adjusting. But, I want my car to handle.
IMO stock is fine. That's what I'm still using, and even though I've
already made several other modifications, the next logical mod is an uprated
sway bar, not stiffer shocks.
> 3) Should I replace the front springs, too? If so, stock or
> something like
> a high performance spring (if someone makes one)?
Again, I like the stock springs. They are plenty stiff already. However, a
front sway bar is a definite upgrade.
> 4) I plan on replacing the rear shocks. Again, is stock ok or heavy duty
> ones like an Apple Hydralics rebuild?
If they're in good shape, the stock shocks work quite well IMO. Unlike the
IRS Triumphs, the leaf springs add a good deal of friction to the rear
suspension (which acts as a shock absorber to some extent), so there's
little need to add more.
> 5) I also need to replace the rear springs as one side sags a little, do
> they make performance rear springs? Or is stock ok?
If I were doing it today, I would add Teflon liners between the leaves, to
reduce the friction. Don't go any stiffer. Note that the passenger side is
supposed to sag a bit, to get it closer to level with only a driver.
> 6) Now here is the big question, is all this something I can do?
The rear springs can be next to impossible to remove with the body on,
otherwise it's all doable IMO. You'll need some special tools, but they
aren't hard to buy or fabricate : spring compressor, pitman arm puller,
puller for the rear spring pivot pin, a couple of reamers, etc. I made a
little mandrel to R&R the outer bushings in the lower A-arms, makes it much
easier, but it can be done without it.
Randall
59 TR3A TS39781LO daily driver (back on the road, woo hoo!)
71 Stag LE1473L daily driver wanna be (waiting for J-type transplant)
63 Sports 6 HB7826LCV rustoration project
57 TR3 TS21731L rusting quietly
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