Bill,
The book says that the first thing to do is to take all of the end play
out of the shaft with the worm on it by adjusting the shims between the
cover plate and the box. I don't recall right now if there should be any
preload or not. Only after removing this end play is it ok to adjust the
engagement of the pin with the worm. Another source of play in the
steering is the idler arm on the opposite side of the car from the box.
The arm and the bore it fits in can wear and cause slop. There's also
some give in the rubber silentbloc bushings in the crosslink. I don't
any yet but there are a few places that sell bronze or brass replacement
bushings for the silentblocs. I've heard that it can help tighten up the
steering but also feeds more of the road shock back into the steering
wheel.
Drew
MotoPsyche@aol.com wrote:
> After a terrific ride during last week's Indian summer temperatures (80
> degrees!) and cutting through some curvy roads here in Indiana, I'm
>determined to
> squeeze out the last bit of play in the steering linkage on my '61 TR3A.
> Operation "Gonna Steer Like New" is officially under way.
>
> I can use all the help I can get on this one. Currently, there is about 2
> inches of play in the steering wheel, and it appears to be a function of a
>worn
> worm in the steering box. Tightening up the adjuster to eliminate the play
> results in impossibly tight action at the extreme right and left turn stops.
>I
> used to have about 4 inches of play before installing a spring-loaded
>adjuster
> plate on the steering box. The rest of the steering linkage appears to check
> out ok.
>
> Inquiring minds want to know:
>
> 1. Is there a source of good play-by-play directions on rebuilding the
> steering box to obtain "good as possible" results with the original worm/peg
>set
> up?
> 2. If a new worm is installed, should the rocker shaft be replaced, or
> just the peg? Both?
> 3. What's the secret to successfully removing and replacing the worm on a
> split column?
> 4. Any way to determine if the tie rod ends need replacement?
> 5. Lastly, how does one get things adjusted properly after removing,
> cleaning, replacing and reinstalling the linkage and steering box?
>
> If I could pull out of the garage next spring and enjoy responsive and
> precise steering, I'd be a happy TR guy. Thanks for any help getting to that
>magic
> moment.
>
> Bill Stagg
> 1961 TR3A
>
--
Drew Rogge
drew@pixar.com
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