Jim,
Randall or one of the other uncanny troubleshooters will answer soon, I'm
sure. Meanwhile, here's something to think about.
As I read the wiring schematic, the ignition switch is fed by a
brown-with-blue wire. When you turn the ignition switch, it closes the
circuit for the white whires to feed the ignition warning light, the coil,
and the starter switch. The brown-with-blue wire comes from the voltage
regulator that you just worked on. ...But importantly, this same wire also
gives the juice to the light switch. Since the ignition switch and the
light switch have this one wire in common, a problem as you describe it less
mysterious.
That doesn't mean the solution isn't still mysterious.
Now (forgive me if I seem pedantic, I'm just thinking out loud), what
switches do is create an open in an electric circuit, so current cannot flow
through to ground, and thus cannot feed a device to make it work. Problem
simply stated: if turning off your ignition switch does not break the
circuit to your ignition the way it should, that means that power is finding
another way to transfer through the devices (the ignition warning light, the
coil, and the starter switch).
Does the light switch turn on the lights with the ignition is turned off?
Did you replace the regulator with a new unit or a used one?
Are Regulator terminals matched correctly?
A (brown with blue);
A (brown with white);
F (yellow with green);
D (yellow); and
E (black).
My first guess, though, would be that you have a wire that comes from the
light switch to feed a device after the switch is "on" that is tied into a
white or white-with-red wire that comes off the ignition switch. You could
turn off the ignition switch, but as long as the light switch is providing
power to that wire (red, purple-with-yellow, or purple-with-blue), the
ignition will continue to receive power from that source. If you had a push
button starter, I'd bet you could turn on the lights and and start the
engine without turning the key.
Terry Smith
TR3A TS 58667
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