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RE: TR3 Alternator conversion

To: <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: TR3 Alternator conversion
From: "Randall Young" <ryoung@navcomtech.com>
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2003 17:33:23 -0700
Jack, since no one else seems to be having a go at this ...

> What alternator do I buy?

Sorry, no help there.  The GM 10Si or 12Si seems to be a popular choice in
the US, but IMO one of the smaller diameter foreign units (like the
Mitsubishi found on my Dodge Caravan) would fit better.

> Is there someone that makes a conversion kit?

One such is Revington TR in the UK
http://www.revingtontr.com
A bit spendy IMO, but no doubt there are others not quite so dear.  You
might check with Ted Schumacher at TSi
http://www.q1.net/~tedtsimx/
 or Ken Gillanders at BFE
BFEKENG@aol.com         (sorry, no web site available).  If they don't carry it,
they'll at least know where to get it.

> If not,
> How does it mount on my 59 TR3?

In my case, I took out the front mount extension and ran a big bolt through
my modified Ford alternator, then through the original mounts, with suitable
spacers.  Not the best installation in the world, but it's worked for me for
many years.  Had to bend the upper arm to match the alternator, too.

> Will my pulley fit or do I need to do something special?

You'll need something special, as the generator shaft is much smaller than
any alternator I've seen.  The stock pulley is really too big anyway.

> Is there anything special I have to do to connect it?

Start by converting to negative ground if you haven't already.  The original
control box will no longer be used, but you'll need to join together the two
or three big brown/tracer wires that go to it.  You'll also need to decide
if you want your alternator output to go through the ammeter or not.  If
not, the output can be tied directly to the starter solenoid, but your
ammeter will always read charge even if the battery isn't being charged.  If
so, the output can be tied to the two wires you just joined, but you'll
probably want to add a small shunt across the back of the ammeter, so it
doesn't peg when you start the engine.

You'll also need to extend the wire from the yellow lamp on the dash to
reach the alternator.  In my case, I added a resistor across the lamp, as
otherwise I had to rev the engine up to 'start' the alternator.  Most likely
not necessary with other alternators (but GM did the same thing for the 15Si
on my 80 Chevy).  There'll be other details depending on which alternator
you choose, but that should give you the general flavor.  More at
http://www.vtr.org/maintain/alternator/conversions.html

Most people cut away the original RH steering mount (on LHS cars, of
course).

> Any gotcha's come to mind?

Nope, it's really fairly easy.  However, it's best to double-check that the
pulleys line up (lie in the same plane) as otherwise the belt will wear out
quickly.

Randall




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