> a) Are there options for the TR3 clutch plates, such as racing
> or heavy duty
> that have performance features that make them more desireable than stock
> clutch plates?
Probably the most common conversion for racing is to the later style
diaphragm clutch, as it is lighter. Less mass to accelerate leaves more
power for the rear wheels. There are other options available, but I think
they usually turn out to not be cost-effective unless you've made a lot of
other modifications.
> And where would you find such an animal as a
> heavy duty TR3 clutch plate.
BFE, TSi, Racetorations, Revington TR, just to name a few.
> In fact, now I think on it, what the heck is the difference
> between a stock and a "heavy uty" clutch plate?
"heavy duty" is a much abused term, it could mean anything from larger
friction area, to thicker friction plate, to higher spring pressure.
> b) I think the throw out ('scuse, the "release") bearing would
> be the same,
> regardless of choice of plate.
Nope. Gotta use the bearing that matches the pressure plate.
> c) Is it recommended th change the sleeve too?
I wouldn't, unless it was visibly worn or damaged. The TR3s used a longer,
brass sleeve that seems to last quite well (although the longer transmission
nose probably has something to do with that, too).
> (I want a
> hundred thousand
> miles out of this car before I touch the engine again, and am
> prepared to go
> as new and to upgrade quality as necessary.
IMO, the original, TR3 factory setup _is_ the 100,000 mile setup !
(Assuming of course you don't abuse it. Almost any clutch can be damaged by
abusive driving habits.) I did finally change my clutch, because I wanted
to try out the aluminum flywheel I bought for a "hot rod" motor, but the one
I took out had plenty of life left in it. Not really sure how far it's been
driven, it was already used when I put it in about 12 years ago ...
The later diaphragm clutch is the one that gives all the problems.
Randall
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