Tig ( Tungsten Inert Gas ) and Heliarc ( a trademark ) are the same system.
It uses a non consumable tungsten rod to establish a arc then filler rod is
used to complete the weld. When the welding is complete, no cleanup is needed.
If the joint is a lap and the weld is not critical, no filler rod can be used.
Think of TIG as electric gas welding.
Tig offers greater control so it is used for critical welds as the start of
the weld will have full penetration. It is also slower , must be used in a
draft free environment and a bit more difficult to master. Using it for body
repairs is a bit much and the machine is more expensive.
MIG ( Metallic Inert Gas ) uses a continuous wire feed and shielding gas. The
gas usually Argon/CO2 mix, for heavy welds that don't require finishing I use
straight CO2 and live with the increased spatter. Mig is very easy to use
and the best choice for a home welder because it is quick, leaves clean welds
and easy to master. They can not weld rusted metal like a stick and must be
used in a draft free enviroment. ( you can cheat on the rusted metal by turning
the power up a bit )
The machines are more expensive than a stick buzz box but not as much as a
Tig welder. A flux core welder really isn't the best choice for body work, the
spatter and flux clean up as time to body repairs. It probably would be a
great choice for outdoor welding on signs, trailers and other medium weight
steel
where appearance is not a issue.
A Stick Welder has been around forever, they are cheap to purchase and have
lower material cost/ consumable cost. They are used mostly for outdoor work,
heavy material and specialty use such as hardsurfaceing back hoe teeth.
They are difficult to use on steel below 1/8", have lots of spatter, flux
mess and tend to leave brown residue on any surface near the weld.
So, for general automotive use, a MIG welder is the best choice. It would be
a good idea to purchase a name brand welder ( from a industrial strength
manufacturer) as replacement parts will be available. Cheap welders are just
that, short lived and sometimes difficult to use.
As for power, my ~ 1984 Snap on/ CK Systematics welder has a 20 Amp breaker
and runs on 220 Volt. 110 welders are OK for on the road convince but don't
have the zip of a 220 machine.
Adding a 220 outlet is simple, add a 2 pole breaker to the box, run wire (
same as house wire, a 12 gauge wire is good for 20 amps, 10 G for 30A ) , black
wire to one pole, red to the other ( or reliable the white wire if you don't
have red wire ), bare to ground. On the outlet side use the same connections.
Just be sure you have identified the ground terminal. Be sure to read a home
wiring book for details.
Harold
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