> It was also listed as a 1960 on the
> title, but after showing motor vehicles the production runs, it was
> corrected to 1959.
FWIW, it's very common, even today, for cars to be titled as a year later
than they were built. The date on the title for pre-smog-control cars is
usually "date first sold", and some cars languished on a dealer's lot for
many months. My Sports 6 was built in 1963 but not sold until 1965 !
> if possible put the cross drilled rotors in front.
Personally, I would recommend against this. The cross drilling shortens the
life of the rotors and pads, while providing no discernable benefit on the
street. The original rotors are huge compared to the weight of the car, in
fact the later, heavier TRs actually had smaller rotors !
> The front suspension looks
> pretty straight forward and the rear even easier. Should I be able to do
> this myself in my garage, or are the simple, straight forward looks
> deceptive?
There are a few tricks, but it's quite doable at home. Removing the rear
springs with the body in place can be a hassle, there's a pin through the
frame and the front of the springs that tends to rust into place. Since
you're planning to have the body off anyway, you might consider saving most
of the rear suspension work until then. The rebound rubbers and rear
shackle bushings can be done with the springs in place.
Randall
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