> My name is Charlie DuBois and I am finally trying to get my 58
> TR3 going again. It has been about 15 years since it was last used.
Hi Charlie, welcome to the list! And congratulations on your project, I
hope you have lots of fun with it.
> Currently the TR starts fine, has the same compression in each
> cyclinder(170 PSI) but it has a very distinct knocking at idle.
> The knocking goes away as you accelerate and it is completely
> gone when you reach approxiatemately 2500 RPM. It returns as
> soon as you let up on the gas.
>
> I am guessing it may be a bearing problem. Is it more likely
> connecting rod bearings or main bearings?
I had a similar problem on a previous engine, that was definitely not rod or
main bearings as the noise continued after changing them. In retrospect, I
believe it was either wrist pin (gudgeon pin) knock, or piston slap caused
by worn pistons and/or bores. But the engine ran for many years with the
problem, and never broke. Still had the knock when I sold it.
> I have not done that kind of work before but part of the reason
> I like this car is because I get to get dirty and learn new
> things. So can I get some advice on what the problem may be and
> what steps can I take to fix it.
The rod and main bearings are not too hard to change with the engine still
in the car (which is much easier than having to pull the front apron). One
of the manuals (Haynes ?) actually recommends changing the rod bearings
every 30k miles as a preventative measure.
If you want, you can pull the head at the same time, which will allow
removal of the rods and pistons for examination. If you don't plan to R&R
the liners, be sure to install clamps to hold them firmly in place before
moving any of the pistons in the bores.
Of course, you're toying with the dread "Shipwright's disease" ... as long
as you've got it apart might as well change the pistons & liners, do the
valves ... well, Jeez that crank isn't quite perfect so off comes the front
apron ... now you might as well do the clutch and gearbox ... steering ...
paint the engine compartment ... pretty soon the body is hanging from the
rafters and you're wondering "What have I done ?" ... <g>
Suitable books are a tremendous help, I would definitely recommend both the
original factory TR2 workshop manual and the Haynes TR 2-4A manual. Both
can occasionally be found on eBay in tatty but mostly readable condition for
as little as $10-15.
Randall
57 TR3 TS21731L rusting quietly
59 TR3A TS39781LO daily driver (sidelined for OD transplant)
63 Sports 6 HB7826LCV rustoration project
71 Stag LE1473L daily driver
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