Egbman1@aol.com wrote:
> I'm about to embark upon the installation of a new top and tonneau cover on
>my '62 TR4.
Apologies for the length -- long for an email but brief as instructions go. I
send to the list so others might add, correct, etc....
It's really pretty easy -- wish I had taken some photos for my website the last
time I did this. Some thoughts...
Tools --
I use a hole punch (about 3/16") that came with a set of Xacto knives. There
are many sources for these, get one that is pretty sharp. You use this for
both snaps and lift-the-dot (LTD). It is the only special tool I needed for
the LTDs.
You will need a little anvil piece to hold the button side of the snap -- some
are plastic, some are a metal casting. These usually come in an installation
set that includes little tool (about an inch long) to flare the rivet
portion of the fastener. The kit (probably available from a fabric store or
auto upholstery supplier) may also include a little hole punch -- but this may
be too dull & small to be of much use.
Only other things I use are a small hammer, small screwdriver and two blocks of
soft wood (the end grain of a short piece of 2x4 is good).
For LTD --
I punch a hole where I want the fastener, then position the top of the LTD
fastner over the hole with a block of wood underneath. I then tap the fastener
using the hammer and the other block of wood. I have always been able to
punch right thru the vinyl with those sharp tabs (some folks prefer to pre-cut
the slits with an Xacto knife).
Flip the piece over & slip the bottom plate over the tabs (there is a right
direction -- tabs are closer together at one end of the fastener) and crimp the
tabs over. I crimp them by pressing with the blade of a flat-bladed
screwdriver.
For Snaps --
Punch the hole using the wood block as above. With the 2 parts of the snap in
place rest the button side in the little anvil and use the flaring tool &
hammer to spread the rivet. Actually, my kit came with 2 flaring tools -- one
with a sorta round tip and the other sorta square. I make the intital hit with
the square one to get a nice spread... then use the round one to really secure
the pieces.
Where did you get your top & tonneau? My tonneau was from Moss and my top from
Vicki Brit (Robbins I think) -- both were *very* tight -- that is, the
fasteners had to be installed right up against the seams to make it fit. I
would
have been happier with a little slack to work with but the results are very
nice and that tonneau is as tight as a trampoline:
http://www.geocities.com/tucson_british_car_register/tr4-five.html
For the tonneau I started at the front and put the snaps as far forward as I
could. I worked from the center out, first the front, then across the back
lastly along the doors.
For the top I hooked the front edge in place and again did the LTDs from the
center out.
For the LTDs on both I would do 2, then trial fit and mark for 2 more. I had
the old top so I would measure the actual peg spacing on the car (at the base
of the peg) & the fastener spacing on the old top and finally mark the spot
on the top/tonneau where the next peg wanted to be. The last is the surest
method but measuring the pegs and old top makes it triple-darn-sure that it is
right.
As I said, mine came out nice and tight but I have seen some that are baggy so
not all brands fit the same. If yours look like they will be tight you may
want a warmish day to make things easier to work with and to assure a
year-round tight fit. If you could even just get a sunny day this would be
enough to make things easier (especially if the pieces are black).
Good luck -- feel free to contact me with any corn-fusions.
Geo Hahn
64 TR4
Mt Lemmon, AZ
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