On Fri, 7 Feb 2003, at around 11:55:31 local time, Dave Massey
<105671.471@compuserve.com> wrote:
>Message text written by Michael Hargreave Mawson
>>Sorry, I seem to have misled you here. I had the alignment done
>immediately *after* I had changed all the suspension components.
>Theoretically, therefore, the wheels should now be aligned correctly.
><
>
>If you used rubber bushings they will settle a bit over time.
I did, and I am sure they will.
> But a change
>of only a few minutes is well within published tolerances, I think. Poly
>bushings are more stable but give a harsher ride (like that's important on
>a sports car! ;-D).
If rubber was OK for the OEM, it's OK with me. :-)
>
>>>I'm not familiar with this suspension but isn't the adjustment for
>>>this done with shims inserted in the U-joint attachments to the diff?
>>
>>It may well be. I shall get the manuals out and see if I can track
>>down the answer.
>
>As Andy Mace pointed out, the book method is different. Since I've never
>done this I should stick to general comments. (Ask me how to set the rear
>toe on a TR6) ;-)
>
>It sounds to me that you've got your car dialed in much more closely than
>most on the road.
That gives me a nice warm feeling. Thanks.
ATB
--
Mike
Ellie - 1963 White Herald 1200 Convertible GA125624 CV
Connie - 1968 Conifer Herald 1200 Saloon GA237511 DL
Carly - 1977 Inca Yellow Spitfire 1500 FH105671
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