As I recall, the fluid goes in one side of the caliper, pushes out the
piston, and then goes to the other side through the crossover line, and then
pushes out the opposing piston. Because of the pressure
involved, this should happen almost simultaneously. It would seem that
something is preventing the piston on one side from pushing out completely
against the rotor. Maybe a small rock or dirt caught in the piston, or
something inside the crossover line restricting the flow of fluid? If the
pad with less wear is on the side that has the main brake line attached,
then I would check for something restricting the monvement of that piston.
If it is on the side of the caliper with the bleeder screw, it could be
something restricting the piston, or something caught in the crossover line.
Just a few thoughts from a "newbe" who rebuilt the entire brake/clutch
system a short time ago on a TR2 with front disc brakes.
David Gunn
TS 3388L
Chico, CA
>From: "Kinderlehrer" <kinderlehrer@mindspring.com>
>Reply-To: "Kinderlehrer" <kinderlehrer@mindspring.com>
>To: <Popnglo@aol.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Re: TR3A Disk brake lining wear + 3:1wear factor
>Date: Wed, 29 Jan 2003 11:51:44 -0800
>
> > Regarding centering, Don't recall exactly whether there were shims, but
>I
> > think so. If there were they went in just the same. I suppose this
>centering
> > could explain it, but a bit cold (15 F) so I'll have to wait until it
>gets
> > warmer to check.
> >
> > As I said, I need now to replace the pads and intend to get them from
>TRF.
> > I'll check the centering closely. Any suggestions on checking? Any
>experiance
> > with the TRF pads?
>
>
>FWIW, I don't think that centering is the root of your problem. Perhaps the
>pads on the "close" side will wear a little faster during the first few
>miles as they rub a little harder during normal driving, but the shims are
>rather thin and making up the difference in offsets wouldn't be very
>noticeable. When you apply the brakes, if all is operating properly, the
>pressure will equalize across both pads and the wear should be the same
>regardless of the centering. In other words, one pad may reach the rotor
>faster, but as soon as it meets resistance the other one will catch up.
>At
>least that's how I think it works.
>
>Of course, you could just switch pads ;) (no, there is something wrong
>there
>and you have to find out what it is before it results in a braking failure)
>
>Bob
>
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