> still nothing. added heet and waited a day and tried today,
> turns over, but
> no ignition. i also used my new 500w (9.95 at sears, what a bargain!)
> halogen tripod lamp, which gets really hot, near the carbs to
> warm them up,
> nothing. now im new to the whole car deal, so what should i chech next?
> what do i look for in the points, condenser, etc.?
Justin, the details depend greatly on your particular car (which I've
forgotten if you posted it before), but when I'm stumped, I always look at
the basics : fuel, air, compression, spark (not necessarily in that order).
With those 4 items (at the proper time and in the proper proportions), it
has to run !
Start with a quick ignition/plug test : pull one of the plugs and inspect it
for problems. If it's all gummed up with deposits, or wet with fuel, or the
gap is significantly larger than spec (.025" for most Triumphs); invest in a
new set of plugs before continuing. Put the plug wire back onto the plug,
and lay it on a grounded surface (like the rocker cover stud/bolt), then
have a helper crank the engine while you watch for spark at the plug. If
necessary, you can hold the plug in place, being careful to only touch the
metal shell and to hold it firmly against a ground (otherwise you may get
shocked, which is unpleasant but rarely dangerous). I have an old plug with
a wire and clip soldered to the shell, that I use for such problems. If you
lack a helper, some Triumphs have an underhood starter button (be sure the
ignition is on); or you can buy (or build) a remote starter switch.
(Currently on sale for $3.50 at HF, and a good tool to own)
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=35448
The spark should be strong and regular, blue or perhaps orange. If it's
yellow, the coil may be wired backwards.
If the plug was wet with fuel, try cranking for awhile with the ignition on,
choke off and the accelerator floored. Check the plugs again, if they're
wet again then the engine is somehow getting too much fuel (or not enough
air).
My favorite way of diagnosing "no fuel - no start" is to squirt some
"starting ether" down both carbs. You'll need to either lift the pistons,
or better yet use a long nozzle to get under them. Then try cranking. If
the engine now fires (even if it doesn't stay running), you've got a fuel
delivery problem.
Quick & dirty compression/timing check : remove a plug and hold your finger
over the hole. Crank the engine in short bursts, until you feel air
pressure forcing your finger off the opening. Now pull the dizzy cap and
make sure the rotor is pointing towards the cylinder you pulled the plug
from. Sounds silly, but I sure wish I'd done this to my first TR3A, instead
of spending two days standing ankle-deep in snow, trying to get it started;
and then riding in it for over an hour while being towed home.
Of course, all of these can be followed up with more detailed, accurate
tests, but for me, these usually either find the problem, or get the engine
running.
Oh, one last comment, Heet will not help to start a car that already has
liquid water (or worse yet ice) in the fuel lines. It's a preventative
measure, not a curative one.
Randall
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