> I'm wondering if there is anyone else out there that has a California
> spit from 79/80 in stock condition (only thing changed on mine is the
> Ignitor that replaced the stock EI and the fan is from an A/H (it has
> an extra blade to push more air as I was always over-heating). Oh, I
> had the radiator recored with 3 cores as well, it doesn't overheat any
> more. Any secrets to help pass smog? They told me my CO was double the
> allowed
This indicates the mixture is too rich for some reason. (I mean too rich to
pass smog, not too rich to run well.) Common causes include dirty/worn
float valves, and floats that have absorbed gasoline. Dirty air filters,
and excess fuel in the carbon canister can do it too. A leaking diaphragm
might, I'm not sure. There is an adjustment in the carb, takes a special
tool to reach it, but it has a fairly limited range.
I don't know if ZS carbs are prone to this malady, but on SU carbs it's
possible for the main jet and/or needle to be worn, which causes rich
mixture.
> and that the EGR wasn't working. Just about every time I've
> had the car smogged, the tech reports the EGR as failing. I've replaced
> the EGR so many times now, I can't remember. I took it home sprayed
> some WD-40 on the valve and lifted it myself (this might be a bad
> thing, but remember they already told me it wasn't working). Started
> the car back up and while revving it I saw the piston move up and down.
It's not uncommon for the EGR passages to become clogged. There's usually
some way to operate the valve manually (for example applying vacuum with a
MityVac), doing so with the engine idling should kill the engine. Since you
didn't mention the NOx tailpipe test, I'd guess this is how the smog tester
is testing it as well.
Good luck
Randall
/// triumphs@autox.team.net mailing list
/// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive
|