Mark
I have a 22 x 22 garage, built in 1946: stuccod, concrete floor, open
rafters, asphalt shingled roof (with half a 4A stuffed up there)
un-insulated etc.
A few yaers back I bought a 72,000 btu natural gas furnace at a garage sale
for a whole 25 bucks. My club mates joined in and we trenched a gas line and
I installed the hook-up and had it all inspected by the gas company. Safety
first!
I wired it to a separate breaker ( I installed a 70 amp service) and keep
the pilot lit during the winter months so when I want to work in the garage
I flip the breaker, and in 10-15 minutes I have a toasty warm garage. I have
not had any problems with ice dams etc probably because I don't leave the
heat on for extended periods.
Old carpet on the floor also helps ward off the chill.
If you do get around to installing that concrete floor put some blue styro
insulation (2-3 inches) under the concrete. And if you want luxury, lay some
airducts into it as well and have your heat blown through the floor.
If you do consider a kerosene heater keep in mind the need for proper
ventilation. You want to be warm, not dead.
Nothing like a heated garage! : )
Cheers
Don
In the supposedly cold Great white north where the only snow is man made and
the daytime high today is a sunny +5 C (and yesterday i was laying on a
mexican beach with an air temp in the mid 30's C )
> Well it's cold out here in Montreal. Today it's supposed to get to a high of
> - -14 degrees C (+7 degrees F). That's too cold to work comfortably.
> My TR6 is hiding shivering in my unheated garage. So the question that's in
> my mind is can I arrange some warmth for short sessions of mechanical work?
> Here is the physical situation:
>
> I have a 2-car boathouse-type garage. That is a wooden structure about 25
> feet square with a peak roof and no false ceiling. The rafters are about 10
> 1/2 feet above the gravel floor. I have been planning for a concrete floor
> for 3 years now, but money being what it is (i.e. scarce) it hasn't happened
> yet. The main pos
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