Hugh
I dont know if the Harbor Freight tool will work, although it is priced
right. In general I have found that it is diffiucult to use these
devices because something on the car gets in the way. You need clear
access from one side of the car to the other at a level that is ideally
around the center of the tire.
I made my own alignment device out of an old laser, the kind that is a
tube about 14 inches long and 2 inches in diameter. But you can use
this idea with the inexpensive laser pointers that are available. The
idea is to fabricate something that will pick up the rim at two points,
say a two by four of appropriate length. Secure your laser pointer to
the 1 1/2" edge of the 2x4, and make sure it doesnt move throughout the
alignment process. Also, rig the laser to be on all the time if
possible, so you introduce any errors associated with turning it on and
off. With your alignment tool resting against the rim, point the 2x4
with laser horizontally at the front wall of your garage and have an
assistant mark off the location of the point. Turn the tool around and
point it to the back wall or garage door and again make a mark. Now
repeat for the other front tire, at which point you have 4 marks.
Measure the distance between the front marks (A) and also measure the
distance between the rear marks (B). Also measure between the distance
between the front and back wall (C). Finally, measure the diameter of
the wheel (D). Now using a little trigonometry and a calculator, the
total toe-out (X) can be calculated as follows:
X = (B - A) * D / C
For instance, if A = 60", B = 61", C = 240", D = 15", then the toe-in is
+0.0625", or 5/8". A negative number means toe-out. Note that this is
total toe, which really is all you should need. You can also use this
method to do rear wheel toe-in, but with an additional step that mimics
a 4 wheel alignment. Since the measured rear wheel toe-in is a relative
measurement, you need to get an absolute reference relative to the
frame. I have done this by making a measurement from the frame edge at
the front wheel opening to the laser beam as the laser is aimed from the
rear wheel in the forward direction. Thus if the toe-in is correct, and
the distance from the frame to the laser beam is equal on both sides,
then you're done. If not, you will have to make some shim adjustments
to the rear brackets on one side or the other.
If you dont have a garage, you can do something similar outside with a
set of cardboard boxes or something else suitable. I have used this
method on all my cars and have never experienced any adverse tire wear,
although I must admit it is tedious, time consuming, and maybe not worth
the trouble considering you can ususally get a two wheel alignment for
$19.95 and a 4 wheel alignment for $39.95. Once I did this alignment
after a front end rebuild, and brought it into a shop to have the
alignment checked anyway. He said it was lucky I got it back together
in spec after doing all that rebuild work, LOL!
John - 76 TR6
Louisville, CO
Hugh Fader wrote: >
Just went back out and adjusted the toe-in to 1/16" and took a ride. I
found
that each turn of a tie rod changes toe-in by 1/16". Don't know if
others
have observed this, but it seems a good thing to remember.
The change is dramatic. Part of what felt like loose steering was poor
alignment. It now feels much tighter, just because the wheel wants to
return
to center. I was about ready to take the car off the road and rebuild
the
suspension. Still needs it, but it can wait till winter now.
Has anybody bought the toe-in gage that Harbor Freight has for about
$12. Did
it work for you?
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