"Evans, Mark" wrote:
> I started my engine for the first time in 11 months last night. Everything ran
> great but the heater valve leaks in all positions. The heater valve (original)
> must be replaced. My heater core is currently by-passed so I don't really need
> it now.
>
> What size bolt do I need to plug where the valve goes into the head?
> What's the best way to plug the pipe from the water pump housing?
Both the adaptor (valve to head) and the hole in the head are
3/8" NPT on my TR4 (1962 TR4 CT5018LO). When my heater
valve failed this May I bought a ball valve to replace it. I didn't
remove the adaptor -- that slightly bent pipe coming out of the
head -- since it looked like I'd have to pull the valve cover for
clearance, but it would be easy to plug the adaptor.
I found a 1/2" bolt plug in the hose didn't work perfectly (on my
drive to Home Depot for the ball valve). So instead of plugging it
and worrying about another leak, you *could* replace the valve
with a ball valve even though the heater is bypassed. Then when
you reinstall the heater you can get a "correct" valve and keep the
ball valve as a spare. Since there have been issues with new
replacement valves, I think keeping a ball valve as your spare is a
Good Thing.
Here's what you'd need:
90 degree angle joint, male/male, 3/8" each side
3/8" ball valve, female/female
3/8" male to 1/2" hose fitting
... or equivalent fittings. The 90 degree bend goes into the adaptor.
My Home Depot had a bunch of ball valves (mine was made by
Mueller) but a limited selection of other fittings, so I got the other
fittings at my local Ace hardware.
The downside is that you can't turn the heater valve on/off from
inside the car, but my heater cable is munged so I can't anyway.
The only other downside I see is that you won't have an "extra"
radiator in the form of the heater.
--
Steven Newell
Littleton, CO
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