David Dressel wrote :
> GOT UNDER THE DASH AND GROUNDED ALL LIGHTS (FLASHER AND IGNITION LIGHT TO
> ONE WIRE, INSTRUMENT PANEL LIGHTS TO ANOTHER, AND TACH AND SPEEDO TO A
> THIRD.
I hope you noticed the tie point on the backside of the panel for all the
grounds. There should then be a wire from it to the E terminal on the
control box, and another wire from E to the body (as shown on the wiring
diagram). There should also be a ground wire to one of the studs on the
fuel gage. However, the ignition lamp should not be grounded. One side of
it goes to the ignition switch, the other goes to the 'D' terminal on the
control box/voltage regulator.
> NET RESULT OF ALL THIS WORK - THE IGNITION WARNING LAMP WORKS.
But probably not correctly <g>
> THIS REALLY
> SUCKS.
Amen. At this point, I'm pretty sure either your headlight switch is shot
(they're easy to burn up, basically serving as the fuse for the headlights)
or it's not getting power somehow. Time to get out either a voltmeter or a
test lamp ($4 at HF) and do some detective work. I'd suggest starting at
the control box, just because it's easier to get to. Connect the lamp or
meter between ground and the A1 terminal, it should light/indicate 12 volts.
Then behind the dash, do the same test from the headlight switch to ground.
With the switch pulled out to the second position (headlights on), you
should find power on all three terminals. If you find power on no
terminals, the wire to A1 is broken/disconnected. If you find power on only
one or two terminals, the switch is bad. If there's power on all 3, check
for juice at the connectors under the hood.
Continue doing "divide and conquer" until you find the problem. There may
well be several of them, so I'd suggest following one circuit until you get
it's lamp working, then start on another.
FWIW, almost any automotive bulb will do for a test lamp, if you can find a
way to attach wires to the terminals. I use a marker light from my now
defunct Chevy, which conveniently has two wires about 12" long attached to
it.
Randall
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