RANDALL:
SEE BELOW...
>From: "Randall Young" <ryoung@navcomtech.com>
>To: "David Dressel" <daviddressel@hotmail.com>
>Subject: RE: Wiring my TR3A
>Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2002 20:44:35 -0700
>
> > However, I can't get any lights to work. Not the headlamps, not the
>tail
> > lamps, not even the fog lamps (and those are really easy to install).
> > Because I bought this car as a "box of parts", I didn't even know
> > that there
> > was a "brake light switch" (although I should have guessed that!) until
>I
> > saw the diagram. Now have one, but still don't know where it mounts,
> > though.
>
>There is a brass "5-way" union in the brake lines, mounted to the top of
>the
>frame somewhat behind the RH front suspension. The brake light switch is
>hydraulically operated, it screws into that union.
WELL, WHEN I LOOKED, THERE IT WAS. CLEANED UP THE TERMINALS AND CONNECTED
TO THE TWO MYSTERY WIRES FROM THE HARNESS.
>
> >
> > You seem to be a fountain of technical knowledge (trying to get
> > some "wet"
> > references in here). Do you think that my lighting problem could be a
> > grounding problem?
>
>It seems unlikely, but I suppose it's possible.
>
> > Do I need to run a ground wire from each lamp
> > (or group
> > of lamps, like everything under the boot) to the chassis?
>
>It's a bit of a muddy topic, I'm not certain what's original in all cases.
>However, IMO, it's best to have a ground wire for each lamp, securely
>fastened to the body. The front lamps all had them originally, but the
>factory may have relied on the mounting screws to ground the rear lamps.
>
> > I thought that
> > the mounting would make the ground.
>
>It's iffy at best. The threads that the screws go into are 'clip nuts',
>which may or may not make contact through the paint on the body. Contact
>is
>also by no means certain between the screw and nut, or between the screw
>and
>fixture.
>
> > Also, my sealed beam headlamps have
> > three prongs, and of course, three wires from the leads that I
> > purchased to
> > connect them to the car. However, only two wires mate with the harness
>-
> > there seems to be no place for the black wire (bottom spade). It has a
> > bullet connection like the others, but no place to go. Should this
> > connection be made to the chassis like a ground?
>
>On the ledge behind the horns, near where the electrical connectors are
>piled, there should be a ground clip (TRF P/N 236366A) screwed into the
>ledge. The ground lead from the headlight, and from the turn/park lamp,
>goes into the clip on each side.
I SPENT THE ENTIRE DAY RUNNING GROUND WIRES. GROUNDED THE SEALED BEAMS PER
YOUR INSTRUCTIONS. MADE OWN BRACKETS 'CAUSE ONE WAS MISSING. BURNISHED THE
MOUNTING POINT TO BARE METAL BEFORE I INSTALLED SCREW AND BRACKET. ALSO
GROUNDED FRONT TURN SIGNALS TO SAME BRACKET. DAISY-CHAINED ALL REAR LIGHTS
TO EACH OTHER, THEN TO GROUND IN BOTTOM OF BOOT. BURNISHED THIS GROUND TO
BARE METAL, USED WASHER AND SHEET METAL SCREW FOR GROUND POINT.
GOT UNDER THE DASH AND GROUNDED ALL LIGHTS (FLASHER AND IGNITION LIGHT TO
ONE WIRE, INSTRUMENT PANEL LIGHTS TO ANOTHER, AND TACH AND SPEEDO TO A
THIRD.
NET RESULT OF ALL THIS WORK - THE IGNITION WARNING LAMP WORKS. THIS REALLY
SUCKS.
>
> > Obviously, I'm floundering, but someone from NAVCOM should be
> > able to throw
> > me a life-line?
>BTW, Harbor Freight sells a cheap ($10 or less on sale) digital multimeter
>that I strongly recommend for any LBC owner. It's small, rugged enough to
>carry in the trunk (or in the spare tire if you're so inclined), and quite
>handy for finding electrical faults.
>
>http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=33499
>
>I also like to have a few "clip leads" with it
>http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&category%5Fname=CT
>LG%5F005%5F007%5F020%5F000&product%5Fid=278%2D001
>
>IMO even an architect should be able to use these to advantage <g> Let me
>know if you have any questions.
>
>Randall
PS: ALSO INSTALLED NEW SOLENOID (BUT I'M KEEPING THE ONE WITH THE HOSE
CLAMP FOR A SPARE).
David Dressel
Champaign, IL USA
'67 Jaguar Mk2 3.4 Auto
'60 Triumph TR3A
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