Tom,
I was told the position of the trailing arm bolts was a safety feature and it
was recommended that I put my bolts back the they came from the factory. Should
the nut come off the trailing arm bolt, the frame prevents to bolt from falling
out, keeping the trailing arm on the car.
The second time I replaced the trailing arm bushings, I put the bolts back the
"proper" way, such that they can't fall out. I'd say it added only about 30
minutes to undo/redo the brackets. This also gives you the opportunity to
better examine this important section of the frame. If you keep the shims
together with the correct brackets, your alignment shouldn't be a problem.
Brian Kemp
72 TR6
73 GT6
Tom White wrote:
>
> I don't know if it was a british engineer, some mechanic or the DPO, but
> I'm really mad at somebody. I'm mad at the person who put in the bolt
> on the inner bracket of the trailing arm on the rear suspension of my 4A
> IRS. They must be sadistic because they decided to thread the bolt from
> the end which nearly abutts (sp?) the frame. As a result, removing the
> trailing arm to replace the two bushings is not possible. Instead, one
> must unbolt the whole bracket from the frame, upsetting the shims & rear
> camber, etc. Would it have been so hard to just put the bolt in from
> the other side, where it could just be drawn out and the arm easily
> removed? Grrr! Has anyone else shared this joy? Is there some good
> reason for threading the bolt from the difficult side?
>
> - annoyed Tom
/// triumphs@autox.team.net mailing list
/// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive
|