I have the same problem with the snaps just behind the door.
Did you replace those studs with new reproductions?
I believe it is a problem with the reproduction studs. I put my old
studs back in those positions and they don't come unsnapped now.
Cheers,
Mike Thompson
http://home.rio.edu/miket/index.htm
59 Triumph TR3A
71 Land Rover S2A
76 MG Midget
On Wednesday, May 22, 2002, at 11:06 AM, bbrewer@qnet.com wrote:
> Before anyone condemns me for heresy (driving a roadster in
> California
> with the top up), let me explain that it snowed at my house at the 4500
> foot
> elevation on Monday night.
> Last night I took my first drive at excessive California freeway
> speeds in
> the TR3 with the top up. Above 70 mph the top would come unsnapped at
> the
> bottom just behind the passengers door and begin flapping in the
> breeze. The
> top seems to fit well. Any suggestions?
> A trick I learned: It is a bitch to get the top bows in place with
> the top
> snapped in position. It is also nasty to try to snap the top on with
> the bows
> in place. My trick is I get the top snapped on, the bows mostly in
> place and
> then drive 60 mph, the top kind of inflates and the forward bows move
> easily.
> Works for me.
> Anybody else have any tricks for using the top, making it seal
> better,
> etc.?
> I plan to re-do my factory steel hardtop this summer and insulate
> it for
> next winter. I can't believe what Moss is asking for the "rear light"
> (hardtop
> rear window). Something like $257! I might try to re-use my old brittle
> one or
> seek alternatives. Anyone know any other sources?
>
> Bill Brewer
> Tehachapi, CA
> 1960 TR3A TS72747LO
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