James :
Check visually that the jet is returning home against the mixture nut.
It's not unusual for them to stick so they don't return fully when the
choke is released.
As Dave suggested, check the float level, but while you've got the float
lid off, also clean the float valve. Remove the pin, lever and needle,
blow through the inlet, and wipe off the tip of the needle before
reassembling. New ones sometimes don't work, so if the problem
persists, check by removing the dome and piston, then pumping up fuel
pressure (with the hand lever if present, by cranking the engine if not)
and looking down into the jet. I don't recall the exact measurement,
but the fuel has to be below the top of the jet by something like 1/8 or
3/32.
Also double check your valve clearances, wrong clearances (or leaking
valves) can definitely affect mixture.
After that, you're into the rebuild not being done properly, like the
jet not being replaced, or the needle too high in the piston, or the
upper jet seal leaking, or the piston dragging in the dome, wrong
needle, etc.
Randall
59 TR3A daily driver
James Fowler wrote:
>
> I have 1960 TR3A that has received a recent full restoration.
> I am having trouble with fouling the front 2 plugs. The SU's have been
>rebuilt to include rebushing, new needles, etc. It appears that the front
>carb is still too rich! I have leaned it to the point that the adjusting nut
>does not turn anymore. The needle seems to be centered, in that the pistons
>will drop with a "clunk" when manually raised.
> What do I check next? I am using Champions and a copy of an original Haynes
>manual.
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