Mike -
Yes, this is possible, even easy, though there are a couple of gotchas.
(I'm familiar with the setup on TR2s and 3s - other models may vary)
First, make sure that your bottom bump stops (rubber block under the
spring pan on each side) are in good shape. More often than not,
these are simply missing, which allows a little too much suspension
travel. If they're missing, you can replace them with the car up on
ramps.
Second, do NOT try to loosen the upper fulcrum pin bolts - the four
bolts that go into the shock tower. Two of them use lock washers and
nuts on the other side, and those are inaccessible if you don't
remove the spring. If you need to replace one of the upper fulcrum
pins, well, you'll have to dig much deeper into the suspension!
Third, when reassembling the upper arms, be sure you replace the
spacer that goes in between the arms and keeps them from collapsing
when you tighten the ball joint home. They're easy to overlook - ask
me how I know.
So, in short: jack up your '3 so that the lower suspension is resting
on the stops, support it firmly on jackstands, remove the front
wheels. Then separate the ball joints from the uprights, and remove
the ball joint from the upper arms. Remove the castle nuts from the
ends of the upper fulcrum pin, and slide each arm off. Assembly is,
as they say, the reverse of removal.
When reassembling, be sure to use proper torque settings for the ball
joint nuts, and you might want to try to find some silicone grease to
use on new bushings.
HTH,
Dan
'57 TR3 with miles to go...
At 13:14 -0700 8/29/01, Michael Thompson wrote:
>Hello all,
>Someone told me that you could change the upper A arms and ball joint on a
>TR3-6 without using a spring compressor.
>Is this safe or common practice?
>I realize that the spring pressure in on the bottom A arm. But..
>I don't want to start on this and get surprised.
>Thanks,
>Mike Thompson
>59 TR3A
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Dan Buettner mailto:danb@thelittlemacshop.com
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