Hi Bill :
"Brewer, Bill" wrote:
>
> 1. I need a new rear panel (millboard or whatever) that goes at the
> back of the passenger compartment (cockpit) against the gas tank. Anyone
> have an extra or know someone who supplies them?
Were the P/N from TRF I posted the wrong ones ? I'm pretty sure they
have them, a quick call to their "P/N assistance" line should produce
the right P/N
1-800-234-1104
> 2. I bought a repro front bumper from Moss years ago. When mounted, the
> ends seem to droop down. I looked at the repro overriders and it looks like
> there is only one way to mount them. Is it possible to notch out the
> overriders a bit more to get the bumper bar to at least go level on the
> ends? It seems like it might burn the chrome or something.
I've got one of the same bad repros on my car (bought on close-out when
they got better ones). The problem is not the overriders, but the shape
of the bumper bar itself. I don't think there's any reasonable way to
fix it, without costing more than a new, better repro.
> Along the back of the TR, like where the
> first of the back lift a dots should go on, there are a strange set of
> double threaded holes on each side. What goes there? Which one gets the lift
> a dot peg?
Sounds like you're looking at where the webbing for the top bows gets
clamped. The peg goes in the hole nearer the center of the car. ISTR
the other hole is a BA thread (maybe the pegs are too, don't recall
offhand).
FYI, there are (at least) 3 different tonneau TR3A tonneau patterns, if
you have the wrong one for your car, it won't fit very well.
Fortunately, yours is the most common, so you're probably OK.
> Has anyone heard of a TR3 steering box
> failing completely (like the peg breaking off and sending you in an off-road
> shunt or head-on)? Is it possible to replace a split column steering box
> without removing the front apron? Is it worth it?
I've seen (and owned) some steering boxes in very advanced states of
wear, never seen a broken one. It is possible to R&R the split column
box with the front apron in place, I've done it. You'll need to
disconnect the motor mount and jack the engine up, and loosen where the
bracket clamps onto the box itself, so you can move the lower column
sideways out of the support tab on the frame before swinging it up.
ISTR the rest was pretty straightforward. Don't forget to remove the
stator tube first. In retrospect, I think it was easier than pulling
the apron, I'd do it again if the box was the only thing I was working
on.
It's also possible (although not especially recommended) to make the
adjustments with the box in the car. But, don't get too carried away
and make extra sure there is no binding through the entire range of
motion. If your peg is worn badly enough, it will get tight at the
limits of travel instead of in the center like the book says. Forcing
it may ruin what may be an otherwise usable worm.
BTW it takes a lot of force to get the Pitman arm off. Not having the
right puller, I made do by adding lateral support/locking arms to a big
2-jaw puller. The puller jumped across the bench when it finally popped
loose, don't have your head in the way <g>
Randall
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