Hi Pete,
There is nothing to really adjust in the top cover. There are spring loaded
balls that go into detents on the selectors (the shafts) that hold the selectors
in gear. The manual mentions a pull test on the selectors using a spring balance
to get 32 to 34 pounds on 1st through 4th and 26 to 28 pounds on reverse. If
it is too stiff, they say grind the spring down and use shim washers if too
weak. The springs and balls are behind screwed in plugs (except for the very
latest TR6s that use worthless driven in plugs that I thrown away and replace
with the screw in plugs). Some adjustment can be made by changing the amount a
plug is screwed in.
I've never actually measured the force --- going to do that this week if I can
find a hand held fish scale that goes to 35 pounds or so. In the past, I've
tightened the plug if I though it shifted out of gear too easily.
There is also an interlock mechanism (little plunger & two balls) between the
selectors that prevents more than one selector moving to the engaged position.
I have a TR3 gearbox on the bench that the interlock seems to be screwed up ---
never seen that before. Will be looking at that in the next day or so.
There are O ring seals at the end of each shaft that leak after a few decades. I
usually replace those seals but it requires complete disassembly of the top
cover --- all the springs, plugs, balls, etc including the three wedgelock bolts
that are usually screwed in very tight.
If you don't have a good manual that shows where everything goes, I'd suggest
snapping a few pictures as you take it apart.
BTW --- from my experience, the most frequent gearbox failure is that rear
countershaft bearing you've had trouble with. That bearing gets the forces when
the clutch is popped in the lower gears.
Good luck
Nelson Riedel
Granville, OH
76 TR6 (just painted, now repairing damage from fender bender)
68 TR250 (next project - new paint)
70 TR6 (all the parts in a pile ready to assemble)
Subject: More TR6 gearboxS
> Is it typical when rebuilding a TR6 gearbox not to have to fuss with
> the top cover adjustments? Back in '89 when I did my gearbox rebuild
> I just replaced bushings, synchros, bearings, layshaft, thrust
> washers, the constant gear (teeth missing) gaskets and seals
> didn't
> do anything with the top cover except remove and reinstall it. Is
> that bad? Were there things I should've checked or replaced in the
> top cover assembly? Looks like I may be in for a rebuild here very
> soon, so I'd like to do it right this time!
>
> --
> Pete Chadwell
> 1973 TR6
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