Richard :
With the spring and all out of the way, you should be able to smack the arms
with a hammer (preferably lead or brass faced) to drive them off of the
pivot pin. Of course, you have to have the spring pan completely off first
(one of your photos looked a little like it might still be in place).
Working the arm up and down (if you can) will help, too.
The lower pivot pins are nominally part of the frame, and are welded in
place. I believe each side is actually one piece that runs all the way
through from front to back. Only the ends are threaded, there is a shoulder
that the end plate has to come up against to set the clearance for the
bushings, and the part that the steel bushing goes over is smooth. The only
fix I know is to cannibalize another frame, or fabricate a new pivot from
scratch, and weld it in. From the looks of your photos, you might want to
consider a whole different frame ... <g>
It's obviously too late now, but it would've been much better to use a
"nutcracker" than to cut off that 'bolt'. They're readily available from
Sears, et al, basically they fit over the nut and use a screw to force a
hardened wedge into the side of the nut, breaking it in half usually without
any damage to the threads whatsoever. The nut is toast of course, but
they're usually a lot easier to replace.
Randall
59 TR3A daily driver
richard triplett wrote :
> The parts that won't let go are the lower A
> Arms. They are held tightly by the bushings that mount
> them to the frame. In addition, I screwed up and
> ruined the threads of the forward bushing mount, where
> the nut holds the A Arm in place.
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