Randall (everyone),
Thank you for your reply. I will try to check the generator, but I am
concerned as sometimes after charging well for a little while with no
electrics on the car begins to discharge. It discharges regardless of the
revs that I give it. Also when the car runs the red ignition light is almost
constantly glowing, regardless of the revs that I give it. I think that may
mean that my generator simply can't keep up with the current electrics,
regardless of rpm.
I think I wil have to go for an alternator, regardless of the state of the
current generator, as you said even the stock electrics come close to
sapping 19 amps, plus I have an electric thermo operated fan. I have no
radio or other electics operating that are not-stock.
However, my ammeter reads +30 to -30, and when charging well it does reach
+30 so I assume that I have a bit more oomph than a TR3 generator. So seeing
that I have mostly stock electrics it should work. But then why am I having
such a hard time even during the day with no lights on?!?!?
Let me know what you think...
Many thanks,
Michael
>From: Randall <randallyoung@earthlink.net>
>Reply-To: Randall <randallyoung@earthlink.net>
>CC: triumphs@autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: generator problems
>Date: Sun, 10 Jun 2001 17:54:48 -0700
>
>Michael :
>
>Your description does not sound that far out of line for a stock TR3
>generator, depending to some extent on what other 'electrics' you have.
>The generator is only rated 19 amps at 2000 rpm, and the 'normal'
>regulator setting allows for a slight discharge with the headlights on,
>a slight charge with the headlights off (and the battery fully
>charged). It does little or nothing at idle, in fact the cut-in (where
>it starts to charge at all) is supposed to occur at roughly 1000
>generator rpm, which is about 750 engine rpm.
>
>However, a quick test : disconnect the F lead at the regulator. Check
>the resistance between the F and D terminals with the engine off, it
>should be very close to 0. If it's more than 1 ohm, your regulator is
>defective. Connect the F wire to the D terminal, leaving the D wire
>connected. Start the engine, being careful not to rev past 2000 rpm.
>With nothing but the ignition active (foot off the brake), you should be
>able to see 15 amps (half scale) on the ammeter at 1500 engine rpm. If
>not, your generator (or possibly the wiring to it) needs attention.
>Don't do this test for more than a few seconds. Don't forget to put the
>wiring back the way it was, after shutting off the engine.
>
>Most cars, even with alternators, do not charge at idle. This should
>not be a problem unless you are planning on having the engine idle for
>hours at a time. Just be sure you drive it a bit before putting it to
>bed.
>
>Even the original driver's manual advises that the battery may need
>charging after being driven in the winter time. The generator cannot
>keep up with the headlights, heater and wipers all at once. Headlights
>are roughly 5 amps each, marker lights (4 of them) are roughly 1 amp
>each, the stock ignition takes about 3 amps ... that's 17 amps already
>...
>
>Randall
>59 TR3A - Ford alternator - doesn't charge at idle unless nothing is on.
>
>Michael Gajic wrote:
> >
> > My generator is giving me the opposite problem. It charges for a little
> > while at over 2,000rpm. If it is driven with the headlights on, or if
>the
> > thermo fan kicks in, the car begins to discharge regardless of the revs
>it
> > is given. It does not charge at all at idle and discharges at idle if
>some
> > electrics are on.
> >
> > Any ideas? I am still keen to do the alternator swap, as I belive it is
>more
> > practicle on a semi-daily driver, but if someone can think of a simple
>fix
> > then I will try it...
_________________________________________________________________________
/// triumphs@autox.team.net mailing list
/// To unsubscribe send a plain text message to majordomo@autox.team.net
/// with nothing in it but
///
/// unsubscribe triumphs
///
|