Pete :
I'll respectfully disagree on several points. Although (thankfully) not
common on LBCs, there are a number of clutch problems you didn't cover, like
slipping under load and chatter (or judder if you prefer).
Again, not common, but hydraulics can cause failure to engage, or slow
engagement, especially if the little wavy washer in the MC breaks or is
missing.
A bunged-up or rusty input shaft can cause failure to disengage, if the
clutch disc cannot slide freely on it.
BTW the clutch on my Chevy routinely goes from working just fine to being
like the one in your acquaintance's car, in the space of _one_ shift ! It's
not always a matter of being oblivious ! On the Chevy, the problem is that
when the facing material wears down almost to the rivets, it usually breaks
away from the rivets. It has an automatic adjuster, so the amount of wear
is not obvious to the driver, and the pressure plate travel is limited
(deliberately I assume) such that it cannot close onto the rivet heads. The
factory clutch did this at about 55K miles, so far all the replacements have
done it at 40-50K miles.
Randall
Pete & Aprille Chadwell wrote :
>
> Two basic points that ought to be made:
>
> 1) With a clutch (and this goes for any car) there are really just
> two failure modes: Failure to ENGAGE and failure to DISENGAGE.
>
> 2a) The clutch (disc and pressure plate) really only has one job: to
> transmit power to the gearbox. If the clutch won't do that, then it
> needs to be replaced.
>
> 2b) Conversely, it's the hydraulic and mechanical release linkage's
> job to disengage that clutch to allow for shifting, starting from a
> standstill, etc.
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