Hi Scot
I know the correct way to set the door gaps, But I did say if the bonnet gap
is not even between the door and the bulkhead, and large gap at the back of
the door then adjust the door to even it out, also unless you know for sure
that the rear tub has been moved ( check by looking for paint edge mismatch
on the join line under the carpet) it is probably best to investigate the
door position doors are more often moved, removed than bodies!
Also don't try to move the rear tub with the roof fitted, you will be trying
to change the angle of pillars some where!
10 years of daily living with Herald saloons and estates!
Graham.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott A. Roberts" <herald1200@home.com>
To: "Graham Stretch" <technical@iwnet.screaming.net>; "Triumph List"
<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, May 25, 2001 5:52 AM
Subject: Re: Door catches - Herald
| . I would suggest a thorough
| > service of the latching mechanism and to make sure you have a small
(ish)
| > even gap at the back of the door, is the door to bonnet gap smaller than
| the
| > bulkhead (scuttle) to bonnet gap, they should be fairly equal, if not
move
| > the door back until it is equal then move the bonnet back if necessary,
| this
| > should ensure that the two parts of the catch overlap as much as
possible,
| > meaning that there is less chance of the body flex causing the two bits
to
| > come apart.
|
|
| I have to comment- the "correct" way to adjust the rear of door gap,
| according to the factory manual is to basically shift the rear tub
forwards!
| I quote form the "Big Book of Herald(i.e.: the factory manual...) page
| 5.227:
|
| "Remove the sill panel from the side of the car requiring adjustment, and
| slacken the body mounting bolts D,E,F,H and K.(page 5.201)
|
| Insert two hardwood wedges between the frame and rear floor about 2"
(5.1mm)
| inward of the body mounting point F. Gently hammer the wedges in, as
shown,
| until satisfactory clearance is achieved.
|
| Retighten body mounting bolts. Remove the wedges, check the clearance, and
| refit the sill"
|
| The procedure is pretty straightforward, and simple. The photo mentioned
| above shows two wedges in place between the rear outrigger member, and the
| drop forward of the rear seat. That is the area to spread. The wedges
| themselves are simple wooden ones, approximately 1"square by 6" long. The
| body mounting bolts mentioned are D (the ones at the overlap), E forward
| outrigger, rear section, F rear outrigger, rear section, H the ones above
| the differential, and K the rearmost ones in the back of the trunk(they
| forgot J which is there as well)
|
| I think this, while a slightly more time consuming method, is the better
of
| the two, as you don't have to worry about upsetting the other alignments-
| door tilt or drop, hood, etc. Actually, other than having to loosen a
bunch
| of bolts, it is fairly simple.
|
| Factory gap between the door and bonnet, and door and rear section should
be
| a uniform 5/16" (5 mm) according to the book.
|
| Good luck!
|
| Scott
|
|
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