Hi folks
I spent the weekend removing the gearbox replacing the clutch, gearbox
bearings and refurbishing the A type overdrive in my 2.5PI MKII.
I fitted a LUK clutch and it seems very good so far.
Most of the weekend was spent on the O/D as I had never done an A before I
was kind of feeling my way, I think I mentioned before that the gearbox and
possibly the O/D had been "professionally" rebuilt. Well I have to say the
professional may well have been last seen heading into the sunset with the
song Rawhide leaving his lips. Also I would like to met the inventor or
silicone RTV gasket and shake him firmly by the throat! Between the two of
them they hade made a real mess inside the O/D, took ages to get the
silicone off / out of the unit. For those of you who were not following the
thread I was in the O / D because of a recurring slow engagement problem.
Randall sent me the link for
http://www.team.net/www/healey/tech/big_hly/od/finespanner.html A fantastic
item on the A type O/D.
Once I had rebuilt the O/D with new O rings I set about the actuating
system. I measured the ball lift height and this was 0.020" and should have
been between 1/32" (0.032") and 1/16" (0.064") This was set correctly
according to the setting arm and hole! I set this to 0.048". To set I used a
digital vernier and zeroed it out on the ball then it gives a direct reading
of lift, no maths!
Next I looked at the solenoid, as it was not reliable in how it pulled the
lever, I was using a battery charger to energise it, it was reading about 5
amps to throw and four to hold, I slid back the rubber boot and lo and
behold 2 nuts, being a curious kind of guy I had to look under these nuts.
Removing the nuts showed me the connection to the windings and the cut-out
switch for the throw coil. I cleaned the contacts and re-soldered the wire,
about 5 or 6 broken strands. re-fitted it and tested, what a difference,
good solid bang as the core moved and during the throw it pegged the meter
on the battery charger to full scale deflection, about 8-10 amps, guess
those contacts did need cleaning then!
I fitted new bearings in the box and a new laygear pin, the original pin had
some small signs of spalling, I removed the bearings from the laygear
cluster and these were of the caged sort that run in the bore of the shaft,
the bore was well chewed, damn, fortunately the replacement bearings I had
were of the sleeve type (Torrington needle bearing), these were pushed in to
clear the damaged area, this was about an eighth of an inch further than
standard.
The other bit worthy of note was the change of the selector / top cover
housing. The original for the car has the inhibitor (actuator) switch on the
end of the selector extension, I wanted to use the cover with the switches
mounted on the top, using the hole with the blank to give 2nd O/D, I changed
the springs from the original cover, thanks for pointing that out Terry, so
that I had the correct springs to match the synchro hub springs. I tapped
the holes in the cover to accept the early type screw fitting rather than
the push in plugs.
Whilst working on the top make sure any switches fitted to it work smoothly,
check the operation with a meter, add shims until they don't work then
remove one shim, this should give the least strain on the switches for good
operation.
The other things that took up a lot of time were putting right DPO
exclusions from the previous rebuild!
The car has had in the past a rebuilt short block, the dowel that locates
the flywheel to the crank was missing, only one of the dowels for the clutch
was fitted, so I had to replace these, fortunately I had taken some small
offcuts of ground stock from work just in case. The ring gear was worn, not
surprising as the chamfered edge was facing away from the pinion of the
starter and the ring had started to be pushed off the fly wheel. As it was
already moving I decided to turn it round so the chamfered edge was towards
the pinion. Yes they are a shrink fit but with a vice and a G cramp it is
possible to coax it back on! I used a good dose of stud and bearing fit (
the kind that " will need a small tactical nuclear weapon to remove" thanks
to whoever provided that quote) to fix it back on!
The tapered pin was all but broken through (4/5 or the way), probably why I
broke my gearstick at a large intersection in Birmingham. I fitted a new one
(with some stud and bearing fit) After that the only thing to say was the
Dowel bolts for aligning the gearbox to the engine back plate were missing,
Now these are only 3/8" unf shouldered bolts but they are a tight fit in the
holes, there is one each side, and I would recommend anyone who is replacing
their gearbox make sure these are fitted. They should be fitted first and
tightened before any other bolts are tightened.
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