In a message dated 5/1/2001 12:03:55 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
JSloan@talisman-energy.com writes:
> Last summer my starter would occasionally fail to turn over, usually after
> I had just run the car. There would be no clicking or anything when the key
> was turned, but the warning lights and everything else electrical worked
> fine. After wriggling the starter wires or waiting a few minutes it would
> then turn over. There was no clear reason I could attribute though when it
> did start, but it always eventually did. This spring I can't get it to
> respond at all. I tried shorting the seatbelt sensor on the passenger
> footwell but that didn't work. Today I removed the sarter and had it tested.
> It is OK. When checking the fuses I noticed that the W/R wire that leaves
> the starter reappears and connects with other wires to a little multi-tabbed
> "Tic Tac" sized box located on the drivers side fender in the engine
> compartment, between the clutch master and the wiper motor. I hooked up the
> starter and grounded it and wriggled the box. Finally - some response. The
> box clicks and the starter sort of turns. Before venturing further and
> damaging something I wanted to see if someone could tell me what this little
> box is, and where do I go from here. My wiring diagram shows the W/R going
> straight to the ignition and ending there, so the box is a mystery. Thanks
> for any help. Jim Sloan, Calgary, AB
>
Jim,
The "tic-tac" box is the relay. Most diagrams for our Triumphs contain errors.
Here's how to troubleshoot your problem:
The first step is to PUT THE TRANSMISSION IN NEUTRAL, TURN THE KEY OFF, AND
PULL THE HANDBRAKE ON. You do NOT want the car to start while you are
performing these tests.
Most likely, your problem is in the seat belt module, located over the
passenger's footwell, behind the glove box, on the left side. You'll find a
small box with a mulitpin electrical connector on it. Have someone turn the
key to the start position while you wiggle the connector. If the starter
operates while you do this, your problem lies with the connector. Unless
you're a stickler for originality, I recomend cutting the white/red and the
white/orange wire off of the connector, and connecting them together. This
bypasses the seat belt module (the factory did this exact modification on the
1975 model year).
If this isn't your problem, proceed as follows:
on your relay, you'll find five terminals:
W1 - white/orange wire - from seatbelt interlock
W2 - black wire (ground)
C1 - white/red - power to the starter
C2 - brown - power from battery
C4 - white/yellow - ballast resistor bypass
Check to see if you have power on the brown wires on C2. If you do, proceed.
If not, you have a problem with the wiring of the brown wires.
If you have power on the brown wires, use a short piece of wire to jumper
from W1 to C2. Does the relay click? If not, the relay is bad. If the relay
clicked, did the starter turn over? If not, the relay is probably bad. If it
did, you have a problem in the wiring to/from/inside the seat belt module,
and you need to make the modification mentioned above.
If the relay clicked but the starter didn't turn over, pull the white/red
wire from C1 and connect it to the brown wires on C2. Does the starter work?
If so, your relay is bad, if not, you have a problem either in the white/red
wire to the starter, or the solenoid is bad.
Go to the solenoid, and pull the white/red wire. Use a short piece of wire,
and jumper to the white/red terminal from the main battery connection. Does
the starter work? If not, your solenoid is bad. If so, you have a bad
connection in the white/red wire.
Hope this helps,
Dan Masters
Alcoa, Tennessee
Triumph TR 250 - TR6 Electrical Maintenance Handbook:
http://members.aol.com/danmas6/
Stuffing a V8 into a small British sports car:
http://members.aol.com/danmas/
British V8 Newsletter:
http://members.aol.com/danmas4/mgv8.htm
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