Although most vehicles can have the bearings replaced in situ, it is quite a
bit better to pull the crankshaft, and have the journals mic'd for
roundness, as they tend to "eggshape" with use and wear. Then you can have
the crank properly machined, and install with new bearing shells, and the
confidence of knowing the job has been done correctly, and will offer no
further problems.
As to shims on the crank, save the old ones, but, remeasure the end play in
the crankshaft. This is fairly easy with the engine out, and a factory
service manual will tell you the proper amount of play for your particular
application. Any good service manual will tell you the proper procedure for
checking the end play. Usually it is measured at one end or the other, then
the crank is moved fully the other way, and measured again. Difference is
the free play, and it is changed by the addition or removal of those shims.
As to the big nut- a big socket and extension are suggested.
Scott
64 Herald 1200 Convertible
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom Wagner - Program Manager" <Tom.W.Wagner@Sun.COM>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2001 9:55 AM
Subject: Help with Crankshaft
>
> To All:
>
> Can someone tell me if the whole
> crank needs to be replaced when doing
> a replacement of the main bearings or
> is there a way to leave it in there.
>
> Also are the thrust washers a difficult
> job to replace them at the same time.
>
> If the crank does need to come out, any
> suggestions on how to remove the big nut on
> the end of the fan extension????
>
> Please reply directly to me as it takes
> me a couple of weeks to see the digest.
>
>
> Thanks
>
> Tom Wagner
> 67 MGB
> 72 TR 6
> Houston, TX.
> 713-964-7068
>
> ///
///
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