Well, typical story of trying to fix one thing, something else goes bad...
And please excuse my not knowing the right terms for the parts I'm about to
discuss.
I just got the little allen-wrench tool for adjusting the mixture on
Zenith-Stromberg 175 carbs, so I can try to pass the emission test. I tried
it on the front carb, and the allen screw you turn inside the tube where you
put the carb oil was quite sluggish, but it would turn.
Then I tried the back carb, and the allen screw wouldn't budge at all. So I
take off the top of the carb and the damper, and of course the inside of the
tube is really dirty, full of sludge at the bottom, etc.
I try cleaning it out with gummout and PB Blaster, but the allen screw still
won't budge, and I don't want to strip it.
Next I figure the center tube probably unscrews from the "piston" it sits on,
and maybe I can get at the allen screw that way, but the tube also doesn't
want to budge, and I don't want to scratch or bend it, otherwise it won't
"float" correctly. And yeah, I remembered to take out the the little set
screw on the side of the piston.
So, I figure I'll call it a day. I clean everyting, but as I'm reassembling
the front carb I notice a 1/4" slit in the diaphragm. I figure it was there
before, but maybe not. Anyway, with everything reassembled, the car now runs
very poorly at idle --
Now I figure the slit in the diaphragm wasn't there, or was just about to
appear. I'll order two new diapraghms today, but would poor idling possibly
be caused by the slit? And by poor idling I mean it now idles at about 500
RPM, down from 1000 RPM.
Interestingly, the engine runs fine above idle.
And any advice on getting the allen screw unstuck on the back carb? I guess
I can just soak it in PB Blaster overnight.
Bruce
1980 Inca Yellow TR7 5-speed convertible
Chapel Hill, NC
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