I've lost the original question, but Steve Daniels was asking about how to
test the fuel gauge in his 73 TR6.
The fuel gauge runs off the voltage stabilizer, same as the temp gauge. If
they both don't work, suspect the stabilizer or the wiring around it.
I strongly suggest that anyone who owns or drives a LBC buy a multimeter.
Harbor Freight frequently has a small digital multimeter on sale for under
$10 that is adequate (barely). Other essential equipment includes a 12v
test light (the kind that looks like a pointy screwdriver with a wire
attached, under $10 at HF), and a package of 'clip leads' (under $10 from
Radio Shack).
Your gas gauge sender should measure 20 ohms (or less) with a full tank,
around 60-80 ohms with a half tank, and 200 ohms or more with an empty tank
(with the wire disconnected). The gauge itself should measure around 60-65
ohms.
With everything installed in the car, and the ignition switch on, connect
the test light lead to a good ground (bare metal attached to the car body,
like a bolt head or something). If you probe the power lead to the fuel
gauge (sorry, don't recall the color code off-hand, it's green with
something), the lamp should light fairly brightly. You may be able to see
it flash as the voltage stabilizer cycles, that's OK. If you probe the
other gauge lead, the lamp should glow only dimly, and the gauge should
deflect upscale (towards full). The gauge should also deflect if you probe
the connection to the sender in the trunk. If all that works, and you're
sure the tank sender is grounded, then the sender must be bad.
Randall
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