Bill :
My guess would be a dead generator, but let's do this right :
1) Visual inspection : fan belt present and tight, generator mounts snug,
generator electrical connections clean and tight, regulator connections clean
and tight.
2) Quick regulator test : with the engine running, connect a voltmeter between
the F and D terminals at the regulator. Anything over 0.1 volts indicates a bad
regulator. (Note to others, this is only true when the red light is on. It's
normal to find voltage here when the generator is working normally.)
3) Generator test : disconnect both wires from the generator, connect a
voltmeter from the D (large) generator terminal to ground. Start the engine,
rev to 1500-2000 rpm. Voltage should be between 1.5 and 2.0 volts, if not,
there is a problem with the generator armature, brushes, etc. (Note, if the
generator is not polarized, it will flunk this test.) Stop the engine, connect
an ammeter between the F (small) and D terminals on the generator, keeping the
voltmeter between D and ground. Start the engine, then rev slightly while
watching the voltmeter. If you don't get 12v by 1500 rpm, or the ammeter
reading is not approximately 2 amps, there is a problem with the generator
field circuit.
If all these tests pass, the problem is likely in the wiring between the
generator and regulator.
Note : if the problem turns out to be the generator, remove the inspection band
(or disassemble the generator if you have a later unit without the band) and do
a visual. Thrown solder indicates a regulator problem that will also damage
your new generator. (BTDT, switched to an alternator <g>)
Randall
59 TR3A daily driver
On Wednesday, November 29, 2000 3:40 PM, Bill & Skip Pugh
[SMTP:anabil@caltel.com] wrote:
>
> Just the Facts...
> 1957 TR3
> Ignition light (RED) stays on after start.
> Dims slightly at higher RPMs
> All main electrical contections tight
> All Grounds tight
> Very new Battery
> Smart trickle charger in use
> Worked fine last week, but not today :-(
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