triumphs
[Top] [All Lists]

TR7 BFH#21

To: Triumphs@autox.team.net, british-cars@autox.team.net, tr8@mercury.lcs.mit.edu
Subject: TR7 BFH#21
From: Eganb@aol.com
Date: Thu, 2 Nov 2000 19:12:57 EST
Well, in the morning light, I realized the timing chain was correctly 
threaded across the crank/cam/jack sprockets, and all the appropriate marks 
were line up.  So, on to installing the new tensioner, which was fun since I 
managed to drop it, and of course the spring shot off across the driveway.  
Luckily nothing was damaged.  I got the tensioner back together and "locked" 
it again.  

After installing the tensioner, I moved the new upper adjustable chain guide 
until getting the required .1 inch space between the back of the slipper and 
the tensioner body, then tightened down both chain guides and the support 
bracket.  

One question -- While pushing the slipper back and forth to get the .1 inch 
clearance, I'm sure the tensioner became "unlocked" again, but since it was 
now pressing up against the chain, I assumed that was ok?  

After that, all that was left was to put on the oil thrower, dished face 
outwards, and press in a new oil seal on the timing chain cover.  I turned 
the engine by hand several times, and everything seemed to line up fine, but 
it took a few minutes to finally get up the courage to close it all up!  

Second question,  the front oil seal isn't terribly tight around the crank, 
and just how does the oil thrower work -- just spins and any oil dropping on 
it is "thrown" back up?

Third question -- the one bolt I couldn't torque at 120 lbs. was the main 
bolt that holds the crankshaft pully -- because my torque wrench only goes up 
to 100 and it is a 3/8 wrench, and I had to use a monster 3/4" wrench from 
Sears to put the bolt back on.  So, figuring 120 foot lbs. is pretty tight, I 
just really leaned on the wrench.  To keep the engine from turning I wedged a 
block of wood between one of the crank counterweights near #3 journal and the 
block.  Sound ok?

And the more I used the torque wrench, the more I realized how much I 
over-tighten bolts when not using a torque wrench.  Some of the bolts, like 
those on the timing chain cover, only required 20 foot pounds which ain't 
much!

It took me even longer to get the courage to finally put the oil pan back on. 
 Then, right after putting the Permatex Blue RTV silicon on the block, and 
the oil pan gasket on top of it, I realized I had left off the real oil seal 
housing, since it's tough to install it with the engine bolted to the engine 
stand.  So I quickly cleaned it up and fitted it so that I could bolt the 
back two bolts to the oil pan and press the silicon out correctly.  

Then I put the new oil pump in, turning the engine to make sure the shaft 
from the oil pump to the distributor was correctly seated, and then put back 
on the oil transfer housing and the oil filter.  I filled up the cavity 
running from the oil pump to the oil transfer housing with assembly lube in 
hopes of priming the oil pump.

My goal is to have the engine back in the car by the end of the weekend, 
which means installing the transmission with the new clutch.  

Fourth question -- The old clutch face was one continuous circle of whatever 
the stuff is that a clutch is made of, but the new clutch has semi-circular 
grooves cut in the material all the way around, and on both sides.  Is that 
for cooling, or to stop squealing, or something else?

Final question -- I'm pondering just how much other stuff to put back on 
before attempting to put the engine back into the car.  It would seem that 
leaving off the air pump, alternator, fan, and exhaust manifold will make it 
that much easier to manuver the engine back into the car, and also to get to 
the engine mounts.  

Any thoughts, particulary about leaving off the exhaust manifold at this 
point?  

And any last minute advice about re-installation also appreciated!

Bruce
1980 Inca Yellow TR7 5-speed convertible
Chapel Hill, NC

<Prev in Thread] Current Thread [Next in Thread>
  • TR7 BFH#21, Eganb <=