Randall, you are right. Mea culpa, Dietmar. See Randall's message below.
Last time I changed shocks was in 1968. Although, now that I remember, I put
the car in the air by the frame and then put a floor jack under the wheel .
Raising the floor jack compressed the spring and the shock dropped right out.
And the rocker clearance is .010 inches Cold. As Hercule Poirot says " use
the little grey cells, C'ptain Hastings." Again, sorry.
Art Kelly
In a message dated 24-Sep-00 18:36:41 Eastern Daylight Time,
randallyoung@earthlink.net writes:
> I think Art has forgotten how the front suspension comes apart. The
> shock actually has to come out before you can install the spring
> compressor, since the compressor goes through the same space the shock
> is in. The compressor is not needed just to remove the shock.
>
> To remove the shocks, raise the car with the weight on the wheels (eg
> ramps), or else put the car on jack stands, remove the wheels and
> compress the front suspension by jacking under the ends of the spring
> pans, near the trunnions (I use a sideways piece of 2x4 to avoid damage
> to the pan/trunnion). Then remove the two long bolts that hold the
> rebound stop bracket to the frame, and remove the bracket. Now remove
> the nuts at the top of the shock rod (on top of the spring tower), and
> the 4 nuts that hold the lower shock bracket to the spring pan. The
> shock should now slide out the bottom (with some persuasion), leaving
> the spring, A-arms, etc. in place. Transfer the lower shock brackets to
> the new shocks, and installation is the reverse. BTW, it's not a good
> thing to change only one shock. Always change them in sets (front or
> rear).
>
> The Haynes TR2/3/4 shop manual is also a good one. They occasionally
> show up on eBay, or at swap meets, for as little as $25 (depending on
> condition).
>
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