Ross,
It's difficult to find a '6 without a click of some kind from the rear ...
some are just annoying, and some are early signs of problems/damage.
The bits that "can" click are the U-joints (6 of them), and noise is
usually found when accelerating, or decelerating, but can get to a steady
regular click when wear is bad (by then, things are usually vibrating quite
a bit as well!). Get the car up on axle stands or ramps, and grab each
side of the U/Js on the prop shaft and drive shafts, and rotate each side
of the joint to check for movement/wear.
The next bit is the "sliding" joint. Before CV's, the drive shafts relied
on UJs and sliding couplings. The couplings are the bits in the middle of
the drive shaft where the outer and inner bits get together. They are
usually covered with a rubber bellows (if they ain't, that might be an
answer). Over the time, the sliding parts do wear somewhat and can be
heard to click (more worryingly, the splines can also "lock" when you are
accelerating hard, and thus not do what is meant to do, change length when
the suspension deflects). The click can be "muted" by refilling the
joint/bellows with fresh grease: this is not a bad thing to do since
this will also reduce the spline lock problem. To check, while the car is
on the stands, you can grip both parts of the shaft and rotate them against
each other to see if you have a loud click. I have not heard of them
clicking regularly, but that deosn't mean that they can't.
The hub is probably the least likely culprit in the mix. The hub is pretty
well designed, and if it is wearing, it is not likely to give a regular
click but might, once again, click on acceleration/deceleration. You can
check the hub by jacking the car up, and then gripping the wheel at 3 and 9
o'clock and rocking the wheel. If you have noticable wear, that will show
as movement at the wheel rim.
The diff can also be a rich source of clicks and clunks, and depending on
your aural tolerance, can be ignored, or fixed. You can check the state of
the diff when on the stands. Invite a good friend to hold the prop shaft,
and then grip both half shafts: rotate each in turn, and you will have some
movement (gear lash or clearance). If the movement of the half shafts is
excessive (I'll have to ask the list for help on this one, since I have a
Quaiffe LSD - which clunks and clicks anyway), than you might need to do
something. The diff. is not noted for regular clicking sound, unless you
have other major problems such as oil loss ..
Finally, I should own up: clicks that occur as the wheels rotate I fix, but
the clunks that occur when I go from forward to reverse, I just sorta watch
and wait.
Tony
72 TR6 PI
>Hi all,
>My wifes 73TR6 has developed a tick or click from the rear driver's side
>(N.A). The tick seems to be more prominent after driving for a while. The
>sound is not found on the passenger side. It is not a rock in the tire as
>has been suggested although it is a similar sound.
>I know it is little to go on but any suggestions?
>Is it something that needs to be looked at immediatlely? The car needs a
>complete rebuild, but I am trying to put it off until I finish the other
>projects.
>
>Ross Maylor
>Calgary
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