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Re: Two TR4 Questions: wheel bearings / bushing of the suspension

Subject: Re: Two TR4 Questions: wheel bearings / bushing of the suspension
From: Randall Young <randallyoung@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 04 Sep 2000 08:18:56 -0700
Cc: "'TR Liste'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <6727B1DACFCDD311A757009027CA8D69C2AC81@Ex02.inhouse.start.de>
Michael :

My TR3A is similar to your TR4 in these areas.

Steinbeck Michael wrote:
> 
> 1.      Has anyone of you experience of changing the wheel bearings of the
> front and the rear axle? As I read it in my workshop manual the front should
> not be too difficult, but the rear bearings require a special tool. Do you
> really need that special tool, or is there a reasonable way of avoiding this
> tool?

Yes, you absolutely have to have the special tool (or a reasonable
facsimile) to remove the rear hubs.  Without it, you will almost
certainly ruin the hubs (and even with it, there's a fair chance of
that).

> 2.      Same question for the rubber bushings of the (front and rear)
> suspension. Here it looks to me, that the rear suspension is much easier to
> be rebushed, since the TR4 has the solid rear axle and the front suspension
> is of much higher complexity. 

The front suspension is actually fairly easy, in spite of it's apparent
complexity.  The only rubber bushings on the front are the upper inner
A-frame pivots, which are quite easy.  If you upgrade the nylon bushings
in the lower A-frame, you'll need a spring compressor, which can be
fabricated at home.

On a TR3, removing the pin that goes through the front eye of the rear
spring can be quite a challenge.  The TR4 might be easier, I don't know.

> Also I read, that there are now non-rubber
> replacements available (for the TR4A), that have much better properties that
> the original ones. Are these available for the TR4 as well?

Yes, in either Nylatron or Polyurethane.  I like Nylatron, but note that
they have to be reamed to fit.
> 
> For both questions: Are there any difficulties one might run in, that are
> not described in the manual? I usually use my (German) copy of the original
> workshop manual, but got, a week ago, the new reprint of the Haynes manual.

ISTR the manual glosses over the requirement to ream the brass bushes in
the lower A-arm after replacement (which is typically required).  You'll
need to either take them to a machine shop, or buy the right fixed
reamer.  Don't mess with an adjustable reamer.

Otherwise, I believe the books are fairly complete.  Ask the list if you
have any questions, or trouble.

Randall
59 TR3A daily driver

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