Jeffrey :
Well, just to add the voice of dissent, I have both front and rear ADDCO
swaybars on my TR3, purchased from J.C.Whitney, and I've been quite pleased
with the combination. My original goal was to eliminate the situation where
the inside rear wheel "tops out" against the frame in a hard corner, which
makes the rear end skip sideways. The roll bars did an excellent job of that.
As originally installed, with rubber at all points, the oversteer was a bit
more than I like, so the end link bushings on the front bar have been upgraded
to poly. (There are other approaches to tuning, including using springs in the
end links.)
Considering that I took 1st in class at the autoX in Portland (probably because
I was placed in the wrong class), I must be doing something right <g>
A Panhard rod will not help with axle tramp, you need something more like the
'traction bars' so popular with the American muscle car set a few years back.
I'll bet the curved leaf springs used on later TR4s would also help, but I
haven't tried them.
Randall
-----Original Message-----
From: Jeffrey J. Barteet [SMTP:barteet@nceas.ucsb.edu]
James, List,
As for the REAR swaybar I queried the list about yesterday, I received a
few off-list replies from folks who have tried the rear sway bars and they
were consistent in their experiences that the car handled BETTER once the
rear sway bar was removed.
So the list says: "Don't bother with a rear sway bar."
As I feel like I must bolt something on back there, I'm now considering a
panhard rod and \ or some other linkage to reduce axle 'tramp' where by the
front of the rear axle rotates upward under hard acceleration.
Any comments on THOSE sort of rear axle placement modifications are welcome.
-jeffrey
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