Kai,
If I'm reading what you're saying correctly, bypassing the
ballast resistor enables tha car to run fine. Is this correct?
If it is then just replace the ballast resistor. When you
start the car in the III position the ballast resistor is
bypassed to allow easier starting, effectively putting in
a jumper lead from battery + to coil +. It would then make
sense that the car stalls when the key returns to the II
position because there's then only one circuit for the
current to the coil to go down - the one with the ballast
resistor. So, either the ballast resistor has gone open
circuit, or one of the wires leading to it has a break in it.
Sounds like an intermittent break if it's sometimes ok....
Hope this solves your problem. BTW you can bypass the
ballast altogether, but you'll end up either burning up
your points very quickly, or frying your coil through
overheating...
Frank Biedermann
69 TR6 PI
Adelaide
AUSTRALIA
> The seasonal running issues with the TR-6 have begun!
>
> Today's wonderful problem is that the car will start with the
> key in the III
> position, and as soon as the key is released into the II
> position the car
> shuts off. However, by passing the ballast resister and
> heading straight
> from the positive battery terminal the positive terminal of
> the coil allows
> the car to run fine.
>
> The weird thing is that I am getting 11.50-11.95V to the coil from the
> positive lead from the harness, if I reconnect this while
> running under the
> bypass lead (battery direct to coil), and then remove the
> bypass lead (still
> while running).... it stalls.
>
> Note: it made it home under it's own power before this
> problem arose, but
> the family member who was driving it had mentioned momentary
> losses of all
> power while at speed... with the power promptly resuming after a few
> seconds.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Thanks,
>
> --
> Kai M. Radicke -- kmr@pil.net
> 1966 MGB -- 1974 Triumph TR-6
> http://www.pil.net/~felix (pix soon)
>
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