Hi John
This sounds like an accumulation of problems. First I think you have been
told (was it you) about the resistance wire and shortening it. it could be
that this is part of the running problem.
The starting thing seems that it is either the solenoid or the brushes on
the starter, both can give this symptom, the main contact inside the
solenoid becomes burnt from the arcing that would occur from making and
breaking high current connections, giving a bad connection. The brushes in
the starter wear down and don't make sufficiently good connection with the
commutator thus causing the slow rotation.
The last sounds like the first symptoms of the alternator giving in. If the
voltage stays continuously at 15 volts stop as soon as possible to avoid
frying the battery. Of course the alternator playing up could also cause the
starting problems as a good battery will "recover" as it is used, ( I went
to a club camping weekend and used the 400 Watts* of headlight fitted to my
MKI to illuminate the erection of a tent, after the lights turned to glowing
wires with less output than a couple of candles I turned them off, and got
the clicking noise when trying to start, about ten minutes later the battery
was no longer flat and achieved near normal cranking! and this from a cheap
Hancook battery.
Yes 400 Watts is not legal, requires relays, gives daylight driving
conditions at night and people don't forget to dip their lights after you
flash them!
Graham.
2500 PI MKII
Sprinted Dolomite
2000 MKI
Toledo
1300 Front Wheel Drive
http://members.tripod.co.uk/TriumphIW/index.html
----- Original Message -----
From: John Summers <trumpet@bellsouth.net>
To: <triumphs-digest@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 22, 2000 2:30 AM
Subject: charging/starting/nothing
> > Ok...It's been a while since I asked for anything, so. You may recall
> that I changed the points, plugs, wires, rotor, distributor cap,
> condenser, a couple of vacum wires. Even a foot of the wire from the
> wiring harness to the positive side of the coil which had burnt off much
> of it's insluation. First replaced with 12 guage then with 18 guage
> braided copper (bad news I suspect since the wire I connected it to
> wasn't copper). This all on my '74 TR 6.
> When I attempt to start the car the first thing that happens is
> nothing, followed about two seconds later by the clicking sound we all
> know as the sound the car makes when it has a nearly dead battery. That
> sound goes for about two seconds and then the starter/engine turns over
> slowly - once, then a second or so later again with more vigor and again
> and again as the rpm's increase until it starts. The entire process
> takes maybe six seconds.
> Off I go, backfireing thru the carbs for two miles. Hard driving seems
> to smooth it out a little sooner.
> Last night when I had it out the voltage meter "shot" from aroud 13 to
> 15 twice. Tonight that didn't happen and in fact tonight's drive was
> the most normal I have had in three months.
> Any ideas folks? It would be nich to regain my confidence in it.
> Thanks,
> John Summers
> '74 TR 6
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