TR enthusiasts
Those of you following my infrequent posts might recall that my TR has seen
the Road for the first time in three years. Now have 81 miles with four
outings.
On the first road trip in my time machine it once again became 1969 "UT OH
(HOUSTON)- We HAVE A PROBLEM HERE"- I lost the clutch fork and pushrod from
the slave cylinder, and with Syncro Shifting got her to my hanger at Martin
State Airport from my friend's Hanger in Aldino/Aberdeen MD, where the
restoration was performed. We didn't have a small enough cotter pin, and I
figured with a tight, really tight screw pin-what could happen in 31 miles,
most interstate? ' On hindsight-even .042" safety wire would have been
SMART!
Sing: "IIIIII-EYE-IIIII -Should have known Better" with a CAR?TR like
You----"
Fortunately, the circlip held my slave cup, I knew I had a problem when the
clutch pedal wa initially hard as a rock (Good test for clutch hydraulic
system integity)! It was getting dark (week night-took 1/2 day from
work-nice weather for moving TR 'Home' for final stuff). Doidn't have a long
enough Allen wrench to gerry rig a temp fix, so pushing and syncro into gear
got us moving. On the positive-it was now down to 45^ from 68, top held, and
the rebuilt heater was keeping us warm and toasty.
So "THE TR" wanted to see how well I could still handle Triumph
Tribulations. Didn't want me to feel too 'cocky'. (they do have a 'soul of
their own, don't they'-that's why we love 'em.
A week 1/2 later, between Moss and Roadster Factory, and British Auto- I got
the necessary components, while I had a 'self manufactured fork' from a U
piece ready just in case.
During the ' week of waiting' many of the 'List' posted about shifting
problems: stuck clutches, syncro shifting, gear oil weights etc.
So last weekend I got the new parts on, and car would not shift into gear-
even after two clutch slave bleeds, and I knew the clutch was activating.
Engine off I got the pattern working, and then all was fine. A little
jutter-OK some jutter, but lowered the RPMs, and all OK. Took my flower
(Camellia) for her first spin and SWMBO could not stop saying 'Its
incredible what you've done with this car"- Can't believe what you've done
with this old car (I dated her in it a decade ago, and it was fun-but just
'running', so to speak.)- Shifting was tricky- a little chip into 3rd,
decided to syncro/double shift- acceptable.
When I got her back to the hanger, 1st to Reverse and internal hanger
maneuvering (at least 11 1st-Rev shifts- NO PROBLEM.
April1st weekend- Same problem. Couldn't initially engage into first or 2nd.
Put car in First, Put in Clutch, Car started right up-minimal lurch.
After the initial 'break loose', then all fine (that is able to shift with
gentleness, no rushing, and syncro shifting. Had a nice 45 min ride around
the airport back roads. When at stop lights-going to 3rd or 4th first-
enabled into the lower gears.
DECIDED problem was probably NOT in the BOX, maybe the clutch-only thing we
didn't rebuild or replace, as several judgements and history said 'NO NEED'.
The next weekend, After a run, I put the rear up ramps, and Jacked up the
car, and used jack stands for the front (Left and Right). After trying to
get at fill hole, from bottom, decided to cut through new poly box cover to
access plug. Flushed the gear oil- it was black and gooey- definitely 90 WT
(last changed before restoration- about 4 years ago. Didn't drain it while
trans was off because it was 'cold', but probably should have (hindsight),
and run varsol through.
After a good drain, put in ATF (essentially hydraulic fluid as used in
aircraft (only Military Spec aircraft hydraulic fluid is even lower
viscosity-but red) to clean, flow out any metal 'particles' for examination.
(Will use a coffee filter with the drain, and examine 'residue-if any.
(Internal Systems Analysis)
Given its Spring (finally) everyone revisits Gear lube weights: Now over on
the Jensen list, a J-H racer said he uses a mixture of ATF and 90 WT Gear
Oil in 50-50% ratios. This is his solution to the debate @ improving cold
shifting, ensuring viscosity with the hot running gear box'- and the issue
of gearbox longevity.
Yesterday in my brief 10 mile run,-5 each way with a food stop. The car had
to be started in 1st, clutch in to enable. This confirms the problem is in
the clutch-maybe not enough lube at the pinion, or a sticky clutch plate to
the flywheel, or maybe not sliding on the shaft easily enough. The hydraulic
and Throw out bearing action is definitely OK- (used the middle of the
three holes of the clutch acttion fork lever, per post hint for more clutch
pressure plate action.)
Now on the return- I could syncro shift down shift-all the way to 1st-smooth
syncro shifting- so this tells me that the syncros are in no worse shape
then they were, and even when going into reverse, the spin of the reverse
gear, can be stopped as always by going to 3rd or 4th, then 2nd-1st or
direct 3rd/4th/1st-Reverse- same as the car has always behaved since 1968.
The transmission was inspected by a good local tranny shop at that time, and
determined to be 'OK'-not in need of any work. The clutch plate and
pressure plate in the car go back to the mid 1980's. @ 3,000 miles ago).
I think I will try the ATF-90 WT mix, warm the engine to where the choke is
not needed before embarking into motion, (thus warming the flywheel up by
conduction from combustion, syncro shift gently, and see how I feel after
the trip from MD to Virginia for the Capital Triumph Registers 'Britain on
the Green' on the 30th. Its 40 miles home first, and 55-60 miles, mostly
interstate/beltway).
I planned to have the car take us to TRA 2000 in the Pocono's- but wonder if
too much "Start in 1st, Clutch in" Starting- would damage the clutch plate
itself (the springs etc)- and leave me stranded somewhere in 'Jersey' or PA.
I just don't think I'll have the time to pull the tranny this year before
June 15th- as we will probably be out of the country for 2 weeks in late
May. I just want to get through this season.
Someone also stated that the stuck clutch -release is hard on Diffs-, I
replaced my TR4 diff with the Pinion and Ring from a TR3 in the 80's- so I
am aware of that potential- it just gave up from metal fatigue at a stop
light one night outing- no 'abuse at all'. Every once in a while- One can
feel the 'diengagement' thru the drive train. If the problem is at the
pinion bearing as well, what is likely to be the effects of running her say
with 100 shifts- maybe 20 starts, 50 'Stop light into 1st gear' actions-
which I'm sure ZI"ve done already and no additional negative differences in
behavior? Clearly the ATP has improved syncro shifting- and the Tranny
clearly wasn't even that 'hot' Egine was at operating temp- but I mean TRANS
temp -like after an hours running on the interstate?
Comments and Opinions most welcome!
Sherman D. Taffel
TR4 CT40054L
"THE TR"
Dealing with the Disappointment
with 'Proper Attitude'
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