Terrific site Randall-I read it and I've got a little head spin, but I'll
get there. Since I don't have a "piston stop" I imagine I could stick my
shiny new dial indicator down the plug 'ole to determine when the piston has
hit the top of its range.
Anyone have an opinion on advancing the cam on a presumably stock block to
get a little more low end power ? ( I have Weber DGV's which favor the upper
end, so advancing the cam might help a bit.)
These measurements seem to take a high degree of sensitivity-but when I turn
my engine ( still mounted in car with tranny and clutch and old sprockets
and chain still installed, but no plugs in, its pretty stiff and I need to
turn it with a box wrench on the fan extension bolt. Is there anything that
can make it smoother?Clutch depressed? Rockers off? Weight training?
Keith
Randall wrote:
> Keith :
>
> You can use the timing mark, but the rationale for the degree wheel is
> that the timing mark may be inaccurate. There are some good
> instructions on Crane's web site at :
> http://www.cranecams.com/instructions/degreeing/degree.htm .
>
> Looking from the front of the car back towards the engine, both the cam
> and crank turn clockwise. This will be real obvious when you are
> looking at it, since the chain tensioner has to be on the slack side of
> the chain. So, with the crank at TDC, the further clockwise you turn
> the cam, the more advanced it will be.
>
> Note that I've heard reports that some aftermarket cam sprockets are not
> cut correctly, and turning them 180 degrees or back to front does not
> change the cam timing.
>
> Randall
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