If you are satisfied with your lever arms and they are in good shape as
you describe. Then concentrate elsewhere for you cornering needs. In my
opinion. the whole concept of the tube shock conversion was to update
the suspension from an obsolete unit(which is not quite necesarry yet).
The first conversion kits left alot to be desired. The latest ones are
very simple to install. No more time than R&R-ing the lever arm.
Here is what I've done to my '72 TR6 as an example.
Apple Hydraulics Heavy Duty Lever Arm shocks (20% stiffer)
KYB gas shocks up front
7/8" sway bar with polyurethane mounts (front)
Polyurethane suspension bushings
Fast Road coil springs
195/65R15 Continental CZ91's
Solid steering rack mounts (huge increase in road feel and steering
input)
The car sits 1.5" lower than stock. The tires fill the wheel openings
very well (no weird looking gaps). Friends don't even notice the stiff
ride until potholes or railroad tracks are encountered. I don't really
notice even then, but I've been driving the car for almost three years
like this (nearly 15,000 miles in 1999). Cornering is very flat and
neutral (starts to push a bit at really high cornering speeds, but that
is actually my tires beginning to lose traction) Overall, I am very
satisfied with this set up.
If you do lower the car, you will need to change the trailing arm
mounting brackets to correct your alignment.
Rear sway bars tend to induce over steer (which is both dangerous and
slow, but looks cool) on these cars so be careful if you go that route.
I haven't found a rear sway bar necessary.
With the exception of K&N air filters and a Jacob's Electronics/
Pertonix Ignitor Ignition system. My engine is also stock and closing in
on 125,000 miles. It still revs to 5,000 rpm easily and pulls strongly
all the way as well.
Finally, the best advice I can give you is to build the car to what you
want and tell everyone else to sod off. Enjoy the corners...
Shawn Loseke
Fort Collins CO
Robert J Carley wrote:
>
> Could someone explain the benefit of converting a TR6 from lever arm
> shocks to tube shocks at the rear?
>
> My rear shocks are strong, and I have used slightly heavier oil in them.
> There is no bounce in the rear of the car, nor is there any pronounced sag
> on acceleration. i.e., if you push down on the rear of the car, the body
> only slightly goes down, and then immmediately returns to normal.
>
> I have heard people state that the tube shock conversion gives better
> cornering, but is this in comparison to a TR6 that has poor lever shocks?
>
> Is the conversion that much better than lever shocks in good shape?
>
> I am looking at ways of making my 6 corner better. If I don't have much
> power (standard engine), at least I should have fun in the corners.
>
> I have stock springs (excellent), all nylon\poly bushings front and rear,
> spax shocks (non-adjustable) on front, stock front sway bar, and Pirelli
> tires on KN minilite replica wheels.
>
> Also, would stiffer/lower springs help that much?
>
> Robert Carley
> Ontario, Canada
> 73 TR6
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