Steve,
Using the rubber hammer to tap the air valve might be OK but I try to
avoid pounding on carb parts with anything if I can avoid it. It might
be safer to hold on to both the drift and the air valve with both hands
and use the weight of the air valve to drive the star washer and screw
out by tapping the end of the drift on the work bench. It's the star
washer that's holding the whole thing in there. Once it's out you can
slide the adjusting screw with the new o-ring back in easily. The
tricky part is getting the star washer back in and getting it flat
against the adjusting screw. Push it down the air valve with a screw
driver and then you'll just have to mess with it (push one side then the
other) until you can get it flat. Once you've done one it'll be easier
on the second.
Bud
Steve Nabors wrote:
>
> Bud and Andy,Thanks!
> My understanding on this is basically set the drift/punch on the workbench
>with its business end up. Slide the air piston over the business end(upright
>just like it would sit in the carb)
> and tap the top of the air piston damper tube(here I'll use a rubber hammer)
>until the washer and screw slide/pop out the top. Avoid
> a new years celebration(assembly popping out the top cork style) by not
>letting the rubber hammer bounce too much on impact. Once
> I've got it out, replace the seal(a rubber o-ring from the kit) and the screw
>and washer will go back in relatively easily using
> a pencil or some other drift. Correct?
|