Geo :
It's been a long time, but as I recall there is nowhere for the pump shaft
to go. Even if it doesn't stay in the gear (mine didn't), it still stands
up high enough that you can just slide the gear back down over it. If the
key falls out of the shaft (mine didn't), you should be able to pick it up
from the bottom of the cavity, and hold it into the shaft with some grease.
You should be able to turn the shaft with your fingers to turn the pump
and align with the new position. The end float should be fine, even if you
have to replace the gasket between the pedestal and the block.
Worst case would be if the key manages to fall into the crankcase. Then,
you would have to drop the pan to retrieve it. But even that isn't too
major a job, since you don't have to take the engine loose, or anything.
If you do drop the pan, check the condition of the oil pump pickup screen
while you have it off. If it is torn, it should be repaired or replaced.
Ken G. wrote of a good way to strengthen the screen. Let me know if you
want a copy of his tip.
Randall
59 TR3A
On Thursday, September 09, 1999 6:45 PM, Geo Hahn
[SMTP:geohahn@azstarnet.com] wrote:
>
> Due to some sloppy reassembly in its distant past, my TR3's distributor
> drive gear is out of position by 90 degrees. Specifically, #1 plug wire
> connects to the distributor at the 2:00 position instead of at 11:00.
> In other words, the position of the cap, vac advance, etc. looks fine
> but the rotor is 90* off.
>
> It appears to remedy this I must remove the distributor pedestal (with
> the distributor still attached) and then pull the gear that drives the
> oil pump shaft & distributor.... and reinsert it after repositioning it
> 90* counterclockwise. My questions....
>
> Will I be able to just pull it out & put it back in? There appears to
> be a woodruff key on the oil pump shaft... will this fall out? Or will
> that long shaft come out attached to the gear?
>
> Will I need to also turn the oil pump 90* cc to get the shaft back in
> it's new position?
>
> The Haynes manual outlines how to measure dizzy shaft end-float, but I
> assume that if I am lucky enough to remove the pedestal with the old
> gaskets in place and can reassemble without disturbing them, then
> end-float will be unchanged?
>
> Bottom-line: The car runs just fine "as is" but doesn't look correct
> with the sparkplug wires crossing over each other... so I don't have to
> do this if it is an invitation to real trouble. TIA for any advice &
> help.
>
> Geo Hahn
> 59 TR3A
>
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