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RE: Adding alternator

To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: Adding alternator
From: "Frank Crowe" <thecrowes@hotmail.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Aug 1999 16:25:40 PDT
Probably won’t have any problems with a 60A alternator conversion and wires 
IF all connections are tight.

American Nearest  Ohms     Max        Max
Wire     British  per    Current    Current
Gauge     SWG     Foot   (single)* (bundles)**

#10       #12    .001018   55         33
#12       #14    .001619   41         23
#14       #16    .002575   32         17

* Continuous Duty current, single wire in open air.
** Continuous Duty current, wires or cables in conduits or bundles.

Both of the above assume maximum wire temperature of 212F and maximum 
ambient temperature of 135F. (source - ARRL Handbood copper wire table.)

Of course, the above is for continuous duty - for the short time that it 
takes to get the battery back to near 13.75 volts, 60 amps is probably no 
problem.

However, a loose joint will be fatal.  (1 volt drop at 60 amps = 60 watts of 
heat in a small area!)

I have no idea what the internal resistance of an ammeter is, but it will be 
very low and you should be able to put a few feet of wire directly across 
its leads to share the current and see what the meter does.  With enough 
wire, it should make the meter read approximately half sensitivity and keep 
it from burying itself on startup.  If you can measure the voltage drop 
across the meter when charging (or discharging) at a given current, you can 
easily calculate the required resistance shunt to change it from 30A to 60A 
for example.

#12 wire (AWG) (approximately #14 British SWG) = .001619 ohms/foot, 
therefore by ohms law (Volts = Current X Resistance) at 60 Amps you would 
get about 0.1 Volt per foot drop.  If you had more than seven feet of wire 
going from the alternator through the rest of the circuits to the battery, a 
diode in the line would help take some of the load exceeding 60A, if it had 
big enough wire and a heatsink (watts = 0.7 times excess current through 
it.)  I suppose you could add some extra resistance (total of about 14.5 
feet of #12 wire) so that with a power diode going directly to your battery 
the ammeter never saw more than 30 amps to keep the ammeter from being 
pegged.

Could also try a BIG Shottkey diode (has less forward voltage drop.)

Don’t hold me to this - haven’t really thought if the regulator would 
interfere or not.  Probably somebody here has already been through all of 
this.

Frank  (aka WB6UNH)
  ‘59 TR3 (with stock generator)



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